Birthday Dinner at The Chef's Dozen, Chipping Campden

It's a rare occasion that I'll be going to dinner without any knowledge of where I'm going, or what sort of food I'll be eating. However, my birthday this year was just that. The Chap had planned a couple of months in advance to book into a restaurant that I'd previously mentioned, and for those that know me, I talk about a lot of restaurants. All I was told is that it was 45 minutes from our house…

Did I want to know? Yes. Did I want to spoil the surprise? No. I racked my brains but couldn't think, and it wasn't until that Friday evening that I was told where we were off to; The Chef's Dozen.

Set in the centre of the Cotswold town Chipping Campden, this is actually the The Chef's Dozen Mark II, with the first originally based in Alcester. Chef Richard Craven and his wife Solanche built up a great reputation, but decided to move on, and after a stint working at The Fuzzy Duck in Armscote, the pair found the opportunity to open their own restaurant again - in Richard's hometown. 

For local food followers, you may already be well versed with Richard's name thanks to his victory at the Cotswold Life Food & Drink Awards last year, winning 'Chef of the Year' (he's also finalist this year too). His precise but unfussy food has melted the hearts of many a critic, as has his wife's passionate FOH charm. Within an instant you feel like you're old friends and longstanding customers, despite having never met before.

The seasons offerings have been almost poetically typed out and wrapped around our napkins, reminding me how lucky I am to have a birthday in June. Broad beans, cherries, lemon sole, rhubarb, watercress and wood pigeon... The menu is designed to allow customers to experience a selection of the best seasonal ingredients that the team at The Chef's Dozen are most excited about. They work closely with a small core of quality producers too, and together the menu is practically written for them.

And what a menu it is; four similar sized courses for £45.00, with a choice of three for each - hence the dozen. Even on paper you can see Richard's flair for flavour without over-complication. There are just four or five ingredients listed for each dish, and no technical terms either; his cooking is highly skilled yet stripped back at the same time. Pretty much the ideal scenario. 

The Chap and I were greeted with some birthday fizz - a Rhubarb Royale made with Deutz Classic Brut Champagne and a rhubarb syrup - followed by an appetiser which had tangy flavours of buttermilk and lime (… I can't remember what it was - my bad).

Out came a perfectly-formed mini loaf of wholemeal bread, which we're informed is made using flour milled at a friends farm, with homemade butter and a dollop of snow white whipped pork dripping. Melting into every crumb, each bite was a naughty piggy treat. Game changing.

Ox tongue was my first course, rich and tender, hidden beneath piquant goats curd, gremolata and superfine discs of courgette; the only clue to its presence being the beefy liquor drizzling down the plate. FYI, serious plate envy.

The Chap had ordered a Chef's Dozen signature; rabbit raviolo served in its own consommé. Like a magicians trick, the flat round of pasta wasn't what it seemed; the underside harboured a generous nugget of confit rabbit, sauced with the clear gamey stock.

Having shunned the veggie option without thought, the kitchen sent out two plates as an extra course. Bright heritage tomatoes in red, gold and green lurked under the canopy of nasturtium leaves, It looked the epitome of summer, and with a Wigmore cheese cigar, crunchy granola and elderflower dressing it's put every other tomato salad I've ever had to shame. And shame on us too for dismissing it so hastily.

Being such a robust fish, my wild turbot's flavour still shone through its poultry counterparts; chicken oyster and chicken gravy. with a creamy turnip puree, cubes of pickled turnip, hazelnuts and, to bring the dish back to the water, sea aster. The Chap had lamb sweetbreads, which would have totally been my first choice had I not have had them relatively recently. Lifted with fresh and green flavours from the peas and sweet cicely, then given more richness with lardo, he barely uttered a word until putting his knife and fork down, longing for more.

For the final savoury course, The Chap continued on his meaty marathon with guinea fowl. The juicy bird was made earthy with wild garlic, braised snails, pearl barley and bone marrow sauce; both hearty and wholesome.

I, on the other hand, went for something a little lighter; pork loin poached in soured milk. I know, pork's not usually a lighter choice, but Richard's managed it. Still pink, the delicately flavoured medallions came with wedges of salt baked celeriac, apple puree and pickled walnuts. For those that fear the fattiness of pork, this is how you'll be converted.

A pre-dessert palate cleanser arrived, not that I can remember what it was (The Chap was driving, so I was too busy drinking the beaut bottle of Rustenberg... and these things are never written down). No complaints; our sweet tooth's were awoken. 

And so we arrived at our final course. Sad times. Struggling to choose, we planned on sharing; I ordered 'rhubarb and custard' - duck egg custard, rosemary and Arlette pastry - and The Chap picked the dark chocolate option, with toasted hazelnuts, hazelnut ice cream and a warm beer caramel that was poured over table side. It melted and oozed like hot lava, and with that our sharing idea went out the window - typical. It didn't matter, my classic combo was heavenly, and we were even given the third dessert to try too; lemon curd soufflé with vanilla ice cream. Nice, but no matter how many times I try, I still can't get on with the poofy sweet egginess (it's become a bit of a running joke with the guys from Lumiere - whoops!). That said, we still polished it off.

With the last of the evening sun glimmering through the windows, we sat back and looked round at the other diners; a handful of couples - young and old - a family with children, and a few friends catching up over some food and a bottle of wine. The Chef's Dozen really is a place for all. Not only did we have one of our 'top dinners of 2016', but the service was probably the best we've ever experienced too. We left full, with smiles from ear to ear, desperately trying to think of an excuse to return.

The Lucky Onion Club Presents: Hemsley + Hemsley

Their faces line the shelves in your local bookshops and supermarkets, you'll have spied them cooking up a storm on your TV, they've just opened up their own café in Selfridges, and last month our very own Cheltenham was graced with their presence.

Yes, the Hemsley sisters seem to be unstoppable at the moment - not surprising considering that health and wellness is so en vogue - but somehow, in the midst of their busy schedules, The Lucky Onion managed to snap them up for a whole day. No. 38 The Park was host to the latest in The Lucky Onion Club's series; Lunch + Supper with Hemsley + Hemsley.

Jasmine and Melissa Hemsley, shook up the food scene a few years ago with their love of quinoa, spiralized courgetti, and cauliflower rice. And let's not forget their 'Boil Your Bones' campaign, telling people to get with their guts by drinking bone broth - not one for the veggies.

The pair profess that food should be delicious and nutritious, simple and sustainable. Health doesn't come from processed foods, so they've adopted a diet that's naturally free from gluten, grains and refined sugar. This holistic approach has clearly been a hit because they've just released their second book, Good + Simple, which sees more home-cooking recipes that promote the nourishing power of real food.

I've written about healthy, 'clean' eating a few times before - see my posts on Gizzi's Healthy Appetite and Simply Nigella - and I'm still unsure about the idea of cutting out food groups without proper cause (ie. allergies/intolerances). However, H+H's philosophy is different; it's not about being restrictive (they do say you shouldn't feel guilty for eating what you want), it's not a fad diet (they never work long term), they eat meat and drink alcohol (yay!), and there's zero calorie counting involved (they're very much pro-fat not low-fat).

The sister's new book is an honest guide for how to stay in tune with your body; 140 recipes with plenty of tips and tricks that will guarantee you can eat well at any time of the day. "Good food, good mood, good digestion, good health!" 

I popped along to the supper sitting at the gorgeous No.38, and upon arrival guests were whisked into the courtyard where Hemsley Collins' were being served up. Ketel One Vodka, raw honey, lemon juice and sparkling water - sugarless, but not so sharp that it blows your head off thankfully - a great summertime refresher.

There were around 50 people eager to see the girls, both local and from further afield. Actually, it surprised me just how many men were there, though there were admittedly quite a few who were dragged along by their starstruck partners. As we took our seats at the long banquet style tables, introductions were made, and H+H explained our menu for the evening; a selection of dishes from the new book.

We started with Seasonal Crudités, Multiseed Crackers, Minty Broad Bean and Creamy Cashew Ranch Dip. The crackers were made from a mix of buckwheat and chickpea flour, giving them a distinctive nutty flavour with a decent crunch, and a wooden board piled high with colourful veg always wins me over - especially peas in the pod! The broad bean dip was just as you'd expect, and the cashew ranch was rich and creamy without including any dairy (they use soaked cashew nuts).

Photo Credit: The Lucky Onion

Main course was Spiced Roast Chicken Thighs with Watercress Salsa Verde and a Green Salad. There was also a dish of Courgette and Cannellini Bean Lasagne to share between our table. Courgetti is one thing, but the thought of a pasta-less lasagne would probably have most Italians recoil in horror. They needn't though, the layered veg with sundried tomatoes and ricotta 'béchamel' is a saintly tasty alternative.

The chicken thighs - a one-pan roast with cauliflower, red peppers and fennel - were gently spiced with cumin, cayenne and antioxidant-rich turmeric. Crispy skinned and dressed with vibrant watercress sauce, it epitomised 'Good + Simple'. I do feel that the portion should probably have been for 4-6 people, not 8, as just one thigh each, with a small scoop of roasted veg and some lettuce leaves, didn't feel substantial enough - and I wasn't alone in thinking that!

Thankfully, we had two desserts to curb our hunger. Firstly, Carrot Cake with Honey Yoghurt Frosting. Made with ground almonds and sweetened with maple syrup, there was a harmony of flavours going on. It would be a great cake to make for those who can't eat gluten or have a thing about sugar, though I am a traditionalist; a fluffy sponge that's full of sugar, spice and all things nice is where my heart lies. That said, the tang of the yoghurt frosting was spot on, and I'll keep that in mind future bakes.

Photo Credit: The Lucky Onion

Jasmine and Melissa took it upon themselves to show us just how easy it is to make the final sweet treat; Chocolate Orange Bar with Clementines. Bish, bash, bosh. In the blink of an eye the coconut oil, cocoa and maple syrup mixture was done, and in true Blue Peter fashion, "here's one we prepared earlier!" Almost as easy as nipping to the shops to get a sphere of Terry's… Almost.

Chocolate grins all round, the night finished off with a cup of spicy ginger Pep Up Tea and a dairy-free, caffeine-free, coffee-esque Chicory Latte, both from their first book The Art of Eating Well. Obligatory photos and book signings followed too, and it was clear to see just how proud the Hemsley sisters are of what they've achieved. Even the cynics would find it hard to ignore their likeability, so good on 'em I say.

You can buy Hemsley + Hemsley: Good + Simple on Amazon for £12.49.

See The Lucky Onion website for more details on their events.