Thursday 20 February 2014

Hobbs House School // Bread Masterclass with The Fabulous Baker Brothers

I just wanted to tell you that I must have been really good last year. Father Christmas was extraordinarily generous. Not only did he get me a swish winter coat, but he also booked me on to a Bread Baking Masterclass at Hobbs House School in Chipping Sodbury. I had been dreamily looking at the courses there for ages, which makes me think he'd been keeping tabs on me, or that someone tipped him off. Either way, I'm eternally grateful.


I had just over a month to wait, and all I knew is that Tom Herbert, one of The Fabulous Baker Bothers (you might have caught them on the TV), would be leading the class, teaching us - hands on - how to make the perfect loaf, from sourdough to soda. I was informed that the day started with coffee and pastries at 9am, then would end with dinner at 5pm, so the promise of being fed for the day definitely added to my excitement. Anyway, the weekend before last saw me tootle on over to the South Cotswold town, both nervous and eager eyed.

The school is above the award winning bakery and butchery on Chipping Sodbury's high street, in what was once the Herbert's family home - its a beautiful building, with quirks and character, and yep, the bathrooms do actually have baths in. Hobbs House was established in the 20s, and is now proudly in it's fifth generation. The school is a recent addition to the business; the leading brothers (Tom and Henry) aim to use it to share their enthusiasm, and in turn pass on their experience and traditions for many generations to come.


There were ten of us attending the course, all of varying ages and baking competence; we sat around the long table in the dining room, chatted over coffee and picked out our favourite pastries (I went for the almond croissant - it never fails to hit the spot - buttery bliss). We heard all about the history of Hobbs, and how the brothers have got to where they are today. They're just as they appear on screen, jokey, passionate, and not an ounce of arrogance, which made for a laid back environment. Having introduced ourselves and attached name badges - classic - we went through to the classroom with Tom to kick things off. (Henry was to be bound to the kitchen for the day, making us food and drink, and generally acting as 'baking bitch'.)

Now, I don't want to divulge too much as I'd much rather urge you to go and participate in a masterclass yourself, so I'll just give you a brief run through of what we got up to. Each armed with a Hobbs School notebook and dough scraper, we started with sourdough as it takes the longest to make. Scribbling down the weights of the ingredients from the old fashioned black board, we then watched Tom mix a massive amount of dough on the table top, before he dished it out to us to knead for a good 15 minutes. We talked about many of the misconceptions we have in bread baking, he gave us tips on what to do/not to do, and discussed different flours. Shamefully, I'm a "flour floozy", I never stick to the same one - I'm a changed person now, honest.

Morning exertion out of the way, we put the dough in front of the fire to prove whilst we moved on to soda bread. But before we busted out the flour, we had a little task to make our own butter; the process of over-whipping double cream separates the solids from the liquids, producing super soft butter (which you can roll up and whack in the fridge), and buttermilk, which is key for making soda bread. It's the best bread to make in a hurry as it doesn't require time to rise, just mix and go, hey presto!

With little loaves in the oven, we moved on to 'The Great White' before lunch. We split into four teams, and following the recipe, we competed to see who could make their dough the quickest - I think we may have been last. Once kneaded until smooth and stretchy, all four were combined and left to prove. I think thats what's nice on the course, you don't make your own personal selection of bread to take home, it's a group effort and everything is shared out evenly. How lovely.

Lunch involved our soda bread, hot from the oven, with the homemade butter and some accompaniments courtesy of Henry; houmous, a blue cheese dip, and pickled cucumbers; toasted with a glass of prosecco. Afternoon boozing and baking? This is my kind of course..


A quick shape up of the sourdough, ready for it's second rise, and we returned to the white dough to play around with the endless possibilities of how you can adapt it - not just your average loaf dont'ya know. We made pittas (mine looked like a comedy speech bubble), ate pittas, rolled the most spherical dinner rolls, made focaccia, tossed pizza bases - then topped them with swanky cheeses and meats fresh from the butchers below, baked them in a Chadwick Pizza Oven, and scoffed them too - twirled cheese straws, plaited a jewish sweet bread called Cholla.. And I think that was it.

All palmed off to Henry to cook, we ended where we began, the sourdoughs. Luckily, we each had a kilner jar of the Hobb's 50+ year starter to take home with us, so Tom talked through the process of keeping "The Monster" alive and how to plan your weekly/monthly cycle of baking bread. The bubbly beasts were put in the oven, and we finished the day with a hearty puff pastry pie - chicken, bacon, leeks and herbs - with a dollop of fluffy mash, and fresh green veg on the side. Oh and a chilled glass of white vino too.

I'm pretty sure I ate more pastry/breaded goods over the course of this one day than I did in the whole of January; I was totally stuffed, and it was totally worth it (you can see our greedy grins in the snap of all of us). I'm still surprised at how much we made during the day, dividing it up at the end seemed like I was robbing the joint.


So, whether you're a beginner in the bread department, someone who has had a few failing attempts, or even if you consider yourself a dab hand with the dough, I'd 100% recommend Tom's masterclass (they have plenty of other classes too, if bread isn't your thing). Hobb's provides a day full of foodie fun, smothers you with confidence, and inspires you to go home and perfect what you've learnt - along with a beefy bag of hand crafted goodies.

Normally you'd go to school with a packed lunch, not expect to take one home with you; that's a sign that this is a school with a difference. So thanks F.C. - I had a blast!

Wednesday 12 February 2014

BITE Food Festival 2014 // Señor Ceviche


The first week of February saw the return of the much talked about Cotswolds Food Festival, BITE. With a nine day long programme of events including breakfasts, brunches, lunches, teas & dinners; pop-up restaurants; cocktails & fine wines; masterclasses, talks & tastings; meet the chef & book signings; food fairs & farmers markets, I had to go to at least one thing.

Unfortunately, for those of us that work the usual 9-5pm Monday to Friday job, the majority of these special events are during the day, and unless you book time off, you won't be able to go. Also, for those of us who aren't very flush with money post-Christmas - cough, me - you have to be very strict with yourself in choosing what you want to go to. So, an evening dinner, under the £40 mark, it had to be..

Thankfully, a Peruvian pop-up at The Kings Head Inn, Bledington, fit the bill; and for one night only, in the quaint Cotswold pub, Señor Ceviche took the helm. Señor Ceviche is a food concept, where by a team of well travelled folk host no choice/set menu feasts-for-all in various locations, most notably in London. Here, they are serving the kinds of things you'd expect from this type of cuisine, super fresh ceviche and punchy Pisco Sours. If it weren't for the crappy weather, and the very British pub like decor, with added dogs, you'd think you were in Lima - well, sort of.

'La Comida' (the food) on this Thursday evening comprised of four dishes, kicking off with Nikkei Tartar; salmon and tuna tartar with yuzu, hass avocado and baby corriander. It attacked all the senses with sharp diced fish, silky avocado, fragrant herbs and a crisp-like slice of toasted bread (which, thanks to the 'boat' it was served in, looked remarkably like a sail). It was everything I expected and more.  

Alas, I think we may have been forgotten about at this point as most other tables were finishing their third course by the time we were even served our second. I was glad I had a cocktail in hand to sip the wait away because there was some serious food envy on the go. When it did arrive, the self titled Señor Ceviche barely spent any time on the table, and was gobbled up in a flash. King prawn and finely sliced sea bream ceviche in aji tiger's milk (the Peruvian marinade), topped with salty crispy squid rings, red onion slivers and corriander leaves; served on a crisp lettuce leaf in another 'boat'. It was a lighter, more refreshing dish in comparison to the first, and set us up nicely for the main event.

Arroz con Pato was brought out as a sharing dish (we're greedy, but not too greedy to share - thank God); confit duck legs, the biggest I've ever encountered, Andean rice, nicely spiced and flecked with colourful vegetables, and a tangy salsa made with scallops. With the meat falling off the bone, and a wealth of wholesome flavours, it was the standout course, and rightly so.

Last but not least, the dessert, or 'postre', was Pisco Love Cake; a fluffy sponge, which I'm guessing was made using ground almonds, saturated with a Pisco syrup, served with a drizzle of mascarpone cream, and scattered with pomegranate jewels. As far as cakes go, this kind of thing was right up my street; a perfect Peruvian finale, though I could have easily snaffled up a piece double the size - it was that good.

All in all, The Chap and I thoroughly enjoyed our evening at the BITE pop-up. For the quality of food we had, £30 per head seemed incredibly reasonable, and I'll be making sure I have my pennies saved up for similar events at next years festival.

If you see Señor and his Rita's on your travels, definitely pay them a visit.. They ply you with Pisco and feed you well. Muchas Gracias!