The Mousetrap Inn, Bourton on the Water

When your friend opens up a pub, you desperately want it to be good. You hope that you'll love it, love it enough to want to go there regularly, and hope that it's a hit with other people too. You're pretty sure that it'll be great - it is your friend after all - but there's that worry that it might not be how you expected, dreading the thought of having to lie.

Thankfully, on this occasion, no lies needed.

My friend is Frank, the GM of The Mousetrap Inn in Bourton on the Water, and although he doesn't own the pub, he's been a key part of its opening (or rather re-opening) and development from the ropey old pub that it was before. You'll recognise him as the tall one with tattoos, probably dressed head to toe in black. If he's not behind the bar, you're guaranteed to find him in London or Cheltenham scouting out the best burgers and fried chicken around, with beers and strong cocktails a dead cert too. Chat to him about any of these things and you'll get along just fine.

It's not just Frank with his fingers on the food and drink pulse though, The Mousetrap is driven by the guys behind Coffeesmith in Witney and The Rookery in Farringdon. Instant cool points. This place certainly stands out in comparison to Bourton's other sugar-coated touristy offerings.

The interiors have the perfect balance of stone walls and Farrow & Ball, with trendy tiled flooring thrown in the mix too. Slump into a comfy sofa by the fire and flick through one of the cookbooks that are dotted around, or pull up a stool at the bar and pick your pint; North Cotswold CAMRA recently named The Mousetrap as 'Pub of the Season' thanks to their excellent draught beers. Though you might also become seduced by the selection of spirits, twinkling underneath the fairy lights, settling in with a decent G&T.

Food is why we're here though, and it's reassuring to see that on a Saturday night, mid-Feb, it is fully booked. Groups, couples, dogs, both local and visiting. The menu manages to fit in all of those familiar faces - sausage and mash, steaks, burgers and fish and chips - whilst also charming us with a number of fancier sounding 'gastropub' dishes. Sorry, I hate that word too. But pan fried chicken, wild mushroom and fresh truffle risotto, perhaps? Or pork tenderloin with fondant potato and caramelised apples? Oh, and Saturday sees an extra page of specials if it wasn't already hard enough to decide!

Having spent the last couple of hours, really quite hungry, in a not-so-nice pub watching the rugby, we hastily ordered some fried foods. It'll always be whitebait whenever they're on a menu, £6.50 for a handful or two, served with a kick ass homemade tartare sauce. A little heavy on the batter perhaps - I love seeing flashes of their silvery skin - though a good'un nonetheless.

Also £6.50 is the Salt & Pepper Squid, something that's a classic at our fave, The Tavern Cheltenham. Whilst this one doesn't come with a scattering of chilli and spring onion, and its batter more breadcrumbed than tempura-esque, it's just the ticket with a squeeze of lemon and some decent mayo to dip in.

The Chap and I both go off the specials for mains, though I've now got FOMO for not having tried their Rump Steak Cheeseburger (£14.50), and I do wonder just how awesome the 'Awesome Chilli Con Carne' (£14.50) was… Still, I was more than happy with my choice; sea trout with beetroot concasse, new potatoes and pickled beetroot salad (£18.50). A more health conscious option - less carbs and a bigger boost of veg - with the oily flesh and crackling skin of the trout tying everything together. Both delicate and delicious.

Gressingham duck breast with chorizo potatoes and seasonal vegetables (£21.90 - the most expensive on the menu) was a richer affair; sliced pink and proud, with the fat rendered and crisp. The sauce too - thick and glossy, meaty and smoky - golden from the chorizo hues. Kudos to The Mousetrap for not going down the more obvious duck with some sort of fruit route, and proof that the addition of chorizo can never be a bad thing.

The dessert menu isn't quite as exciting as the rest, with three chocolate variations taking up most of the room. Warm fudge cake, a trio of mousses and a brownie with ice cream. All hitting that sweet spot, I'm sure, but chocolate desserts aren't really my thing. Instead we did sharesies on the tart lemon and raspberry posset (£7) - which, with a biscuit base, definitely felt more like a cheesecake - and the sticky toffee pudding (£6.50) - the winner. A light and fluffy steamed sponge saturated in a syrupy sauce, striking that balance of being indulgent without risk of heart attack.

Service was attentive and speedy; we managed to squeeze in our three courses in just over an hour. Not that we were in a rush though, we had a room upstairs. Yep, as the name suggests, The Mousetrap Inn has 10 bedrooms for overnight stays. They haven't been revamped like the rest of the pub yet, but they're set to do it soon. I don't doubt that they'll be exactly the 'Cotswold Cool' that Bourton craves. And a Coffeesmith coffee alongside your avocado on toast for breakfast the next morning? A far cry from the only-option-greasy-fry-ups that you'd usually get (though a Full English is also available). 

Frank's an excellent host and we had such a great time at The Mousetrap. It's one of those places that, if you're a local, you could easily make it your second home, or if you're visiting you'll be glad you came across it. It's not super fancy - it's not trying to be - nor is it trying to pile in the hordes of tourists; it's just an honest pub and I'll happily recommend it.