Bordeaux Wine Dinner at Hotel Du Vin Cheltenham

Hotel du Vin. The name says it all really; a hotel with a focus on wine. Sweet deal. So why is it that I never think of going there for a drink? It is because it's a hotel chain (usually a soulless affair)? Is it because it's slightly (hardly) off the beaten track? Is it because I have already found myself a really good local wine bar? Who knows, but after two years of frequenting other bars and restaurants, I returned to Cheltenham's Hotel du Vin with a booking for their Bordeaux Wine Dinner.

Everyone's heard of Bordeaux, right? You can definitely spend big bucks on a flashy bottle, whether it's worth it or not is another question, and you can easily get suckered into buying a bottle of plonk just because of the label saying where it's from. Wine can be a mine field, particularly this French region, but with a representative from Bibendum and HDV's sommelier, we were guided through some delicious wines paired to a three course dinner cooked by Head Chef Paul Motram.

Underneath the twinkling wine glass chandelier, we began our evening with a refreshing Lillet Blanc, honey and lemon cocktail alongside a selection of canapés. Our host dug out her wine-cyclopaedia, giving us a brief bio of Bordeaux; I think we were all dreaming of traveling around the southwest of France as we nibbled our paté toasts.

Rather than picking the wine to match the food, here the wine comes first, and we started with Château Carbonnieux White. A blend of 60:40 Sauvignon:Semillon, it's aged in used oak barrels for just under a year. The Semillon grapes tame down the zippiness of the Sauvignon by giving them roundness and volume on the palate, whilst the subtle oak adds richness. There's a grapefruit acidity in the first sip, which develops into ripe peaches and finishes with a creamy mouthfeel. An excellent partner to our starter; pan seared sea bass, cod brandade gratin, fennel purée and preserved lemon sauce. Admittedly not the prettiest of dishes - a sea of beige and brown should only be seen at your local bakery - but looks can be deceiving. Send more of that silky brandade my way, the super saltiness was well balanced with the wine, and all that was missing was the French sunshine.

To accompany our mains we had a Bordeaux battle; two reds from the same year, one left bank and one right bank. Château Langoa Barton 2005, Saint-Julien vs. Château de Fonbel 2005, Saint-Emilion. Recognisable appellations, sure, and most winos will have their preference, but before this I couldn't have told you which side I was on. Whist all Bordeauxs are blends, Cabernet Sauvignon is the dominant grape in the left bank, whilst Merlot takes the majority on the right. The Saint-Julien was jammy, with ripe blackberries and a touch of tobacco, whilst the Saint-Emilion was lighter in body and had a more concentrated berry flavour. Both beaut, but I've discovered I'm a Saint-Julien girl. 

Our main course was not your usual hotel restaurant fayre; beef fillet and braised short rib, almond croquette, tenderstem broccoli and confit tomato jus. Just a nudge with a knife and the short rib collapsed in its thick, glossy sauce, and that fillet… Rich, meaty, delicious. 'Nuff said. Could've done with a few more greens, but I don't go out to eat for health. Both wines were great with it, though the Julien still edged it for me.  

After seeing ile flotantes (floating islands) on various cooking shows throughout the years, HDV were the ones to pop my cherry. A large poached meringue marooned on a vanilla crème anglasie with caramel and toasted flaked almonds on top. It's both light and heavy at the same time - a little boggling - and I don't think anyone could finish their bowl - it really was massive - but it was so good with our final wine of the night; a chilled golden glass of Sauternes! Made from grapes affected by Noble Rot, it has a sweet nectar/honey flavour, but a lingering acidity that keeps it fresh and stops your mouth from being sugared out. Yu-um. Pass the bottle.

We left Hotel du Vin feeling full and a little sozzled, and on our walk home made an "executive decision" that the £70 per person it cost was actually a really good deal. Not only did we have a snazzy cocktail and lots of canapés to start, but three courses with four wines, all of which were generously poured and equally as generously topped up! It does sound like a lot to fork out all at once - I'd certainly wince - but for what you actually get (including the explanations from Bibendum and the sommelier) it's good value.

If you're into wine, or want to get into wine, this is a great starting place. Not only will you gain some knowledge, but you'll taste some new things and get fed with plenty of delicious foods. From now on I shall never underestimate Hotel du Vin; it's worth a visit.

The next Wine Dinner is Friday 20th October at 7pm focussing on the Rhone (£80), or Friday 24th November with Portuguese wines (£65). Treat yourselves and book now!

Beaujolais Nouveau: The Ox Meets The Grape Escape Cheltenham

Le Beaujolais nouveau est arrivé!

Beaujolais Nouveau Day is something I look forward to every year (as if I don't celebrate wine enough on a weekly basis). It always falls on the third Thursday of November, where traditionally Beaujolais winemakers would race to Paris carrying the first bottles of the new vintage, releasing it at 12:01am just weeks after the grapes have been harvested and crushed. The sprightly cherry red Gamay, that's often served chilled, is still celebrated in this way with nouveau parties going on until the wee hours of the morning - hooray for wine!

This year, albeit a few days late, we marked the 2016 vintage with a very special evening of fine food and wine with two of the best independents in town; The Ox restaurant and The Grape Escape wine bar.

Ant and Zoe from The Grape had picked a selection of the best Beaujolais' - one nouveau, one white, one rose, and three other reds - whilst Head Chef Piotr pieced together a five course menu to accompany the wines. Not the usual way you'd do food pairings but hey, this is wine day!

As the thirsty folk of Cheltenham arrived at The Ox on Cambray Place, arrival drinks sure were flowing; Domaine de Grandmont Beaujolais Villages Nouveau 2016. Apparently earlier in the year, things weren't looking so rosy for the growers in Beaujolais. A damp, grey May was followed by an unseasonably colder June, and finished with a devastating hailstorm that laid waste to numerous vineyards in Fleurie, Chiroubles and Morgon. However, the late flowering and a warm and sunny July and August, turned everything around and resulted in excellent ripeness.

This years wine is fresh, clean and precise, with adolescent flavours of bubblegum and blueberries lurking behind the initial black fruitiness. A good year after all, and it's bonkers to think that the grapes for this wine were only picked on September 20th!

We sat on long communal tables - in true celebration style - and out came our first course of the night; Game & pistachio terrine, chutney and pickles paired with the beautiful Jean-Paul Thévenet Morgon 'Tradition Le Clachet' 2015.

Made from 75 year old vines that are cultivated organically, this wine has been fermented au naturel with naturally occurring yeasts and without the addition of sulphur. It's aged in used oak barrels (which are from the more famous Domaine de la Romanée-Conti) for 6 - 8 months, giving it a wonderful flavour. It has crunchy ripe red berry fruit, cherries, herbs and spice. Definitely my favourite wine of the night, and the terrine - made with venison, chicken livers, partridge and pigeon - was a cracking match too. The red fruits lifted the gaminess, whilst the charred sourdough and the earthy beetroot and tomato chutney played with the spice.

Next we ventured to a more unusual Beaujolais - a white! Only 1% of the wines made in the region are white, and this one was a winner; Chateau Thivin Beaujolais Villages Blanc 'Cuvée Marguerite' 2015 matched to The Ox smoked salmon, cucumber and wasabi yoghurt.

This Beaujo Blanc is 100% Chardonnay, grown on clay-chalk soil, and hand harvested with minimal intervention. It's casked directly after pressing, and left to ferment entirely before the wine is aged on the lees for nine months. This has given it a full, complex mouthfeel, reminiscent of a 1er Cru Chablis - ooh err! Lovely elderflower and white peach notes complimented the subtly smoked salmon, with the citrus edge heightening the tang of the yoghurt and the saltiness of the rock samphire. The wasabi was quite a punch at times, but being a mustard-fiend I didn't care.

The best pairing of the night had to be the roasted partridge, pearl barley, parsley root puree, crispy curly kale together with Paul-Henri Thillardon Chenas 'Les Boccards' 2013.

Made by a talented young winemaker, using parcels of vines in Chenas and Chiroubles, this is everything you'd expect from a decent Beaujolais. Strawberries, redcurrants and violet on the nose, with a burst of juicy red berries as you take your first sip. Its soft tannins and long length made it the ideal wine to have with our tender partridge, which came two ways. The breasts of the bird had been wrapped in parma ham to make a ballotine, whilst the confit leg meat was rolled together with herbs, coated in panko breadcrumbs and fried. The barley, puree and crisp kale added to the all the interesting textures, and it felt truly Autumnal.

The cheese course with house pickles, biscuits and chutney came with Chateau du Pavé Brouilly 2014. Made by English winemaker Chris Piper from a 3 hectare vineyard situated at the foot of Cote de Brouilly, this is another minimal intervention wine. The vines are cultivated using eco-friendly methods and the yields are kept low, creating delicious concentration. There's depth and structure with black cherries and raspberries, finishing with a touch of spice... Great for the brie and the cheddar, not so much for the stilton; gimme something sweet with that!

Last but not least, we had Lemon meringue, creme fraiche ice cream, candied lemon and yuzu cracker.  Domaine de Grandmont Rosé 2015. It's a pretty rare occurrence to come across a pink Beaujolais, but here we have one! We're told that the Gamay grapes are harvested in the dew of the morning to capture them at their ultimate freshness - how romantic - and this has locked in the zesty citrus and strawberry flavours. There's a natural sweetness about it with an off-dry finish; terribly easy to drink, but unfortunately not such a good match for dessert.

The tartness of the lemon and lime curds were exactly what we all craved after quite a rich dinner, but unfortunately it just clashed with the wine. Individually; delightful (I love the twist on a classic lemon meringue pie). Together; not so much. You can't win them all.

This exclusive event, with five courses paired to five wines (plus the nouveau), was a miniscule price of £45. Ridiculous value, right?! The Ox know what they're doing in the kitchen - the food was spot on from start to finish - and as ever The Grape Escape picked out some wonderful wines. Let's hope we don't have to wait until next November for another Cheltenham indie collaboration *HINT*... Now, go forth and drink brilliant Beaujolais!

Côte Brasserie Cheltenham

Last week saw the opening of Cheltenham's newest restaurant, Côte Brasserie, and armed with a 50% off food voucher, I couldn't get there quick enough. 

We're getting a bit spoilt for choice with all these chains finding a home in town, first it was Bill's, then Turtle Bay, now Côte, and there's a Carluccio's set to open next month. Not being one for eating at chain restaurants usually, I thought I'd take full advantage of the opening offer and see what all the fuss was about. 

Taking the place of what was Montpellier Brasserie, Côte is in prime position for those fancying dinner and drinks down that end of town. It's undergone quite the refurbishment, though previous regulars will be glad to see that the downstairs layout is very similar to before. It's bright and airy, oozing with French style, and they've made space for additional seating too, so it'll be great for larger groups!

We kicked off our dinner with a Kir Royale (£3.95) and an Anchovy Pissaladière (£3.50); a warm flat bread originating from Nice, with caramelised onions, salty anchovies, juicy black olives and a sprinkling of parsley. I think I'll be making this at home as it was great pre-dinner snack material, though I'd be more generous on the parsley in order to balance the out the saltiness. 

The Chap chose Calamari (£6.25) as his starter; breadcrumbed squid sautéed in garlic, lemon and parsley with tartare sauce. It was bloody massive, and could have easily been shared between two. Whilst it was nice, he got a bit bored by the end, and had to leave some - not like him at all! 

Predictably, I opted for the Steak Tartare (£6.95). The beef was finely chopped so that it still retained some texture (I hate it when it's verging on minced beef), then mixed with shallots, capers, cornichons, egg yolk and cognac. I quite like the wow factor of having an egg yolk sat on top, but I guess that could put some people off, so having it pre-mixed is probably more approachable for those who've not had steak tartare before. It was fresh and well seasoned, though I can't help but think a thinner, crispier bread would have gone with it better; you need a decent crunch. 

With our discount in mind, The Chap chose the most expensive main; a 7oz Fillet Steak (£18.50), served with frites, watercress and a green peppercorn, cognac and cream sauce (£1.95). It was perfectly cooked - the beef practically melted in the mouth - and the peppercorn sauce was not too fiery, just velvety. 

The Rump of Lamb (£13.95) caught my eye, served in a deep dish with roasted courgettes, new potatoes, carrots, and red onion, smothered with a rich and glossy veal jus. Served pink, the lamb was faultless, and it felt like a wonderfully French, slightly naughty, spring time supper. I'd happily sack off a traditional Sunday roast and have this instead, but let's keep that between us...

We shared Côte's Speciality dessert; Crème Caramel (£4.95). I've not had a creme caramel for years, and I still think of the ones you get from the supermarket in little fluted plastic pots. This was much nicer than those, thank god, though its presentation could have probably been better. A set vanilla pod custard, which still had a good wobble, with an intensely flavoured dark caramel top, served with a splash cream. Not too heavy, and not sickly sweet, it was a great end to our meal. 

I was kind of expecting a few hiccups, being a new opening, but service was top notch. That said, I might propose that it was all a bit too quick; no sooner as our plates had been cleared away, our next course was out. I guess that's better than waiting for ages, but to have three courses in an hour and a half is a bit mad, particularly as we weren't in any rush! 

Had our bill been full price, with a £25 bottle of wine and service included, our dinner at Côte Brasserie would have been just over the £100 mark. That's an appetiser, two starters, two mains, one dessert, and drinks.. Granted, we probably wouldn't have had the fillet steak, but it seems a little steep, especially as we were out the door in 90 minutes... 

Still, we both had a good time, agreed that the mains we the best part, and shall consider it a 'good go-to' for dinner with fussy friends, as there's loads to choose from! 

Here's to the latest addition on Cheltenham's culinary map! 

Khool French Kitchen

Last weekend I found myself at another foodie event at the Literature Festival, 'Lunch with Rachel Khoo'. The British born kitchen queen, who actually has a degree in Art & Design from Central Saint Martins (yep - art & food - pretty much THE dream), is famed for cooking in her tiny Parisian apartment, where, in days gone by, she hosted intimate supper clubs for just a handful of people. Lured to the French capital by the exquisite patisserie, she studied pastry at Le Cordon Bleu, and has since thrown herself into the world of food. Her first TV show/cookery book 'The Little Paris Kitchen' was a global success, and with the release of her new book 'My Little French Kitchen', this event gave her the chance to divulge more about it, along with the attendees being able to taste a few of her recipes.

I suppose it was more like an 'in conversation with..' kind of thing, and the interviewer, who seemed like a less orange David Dickinson, started off very straight to the point. "There are so many cookbooks around these days, so why should we buy yours?" Phwoar. Bombshell. Luckily, Rachel is just as she appears on TV - very bubbily with a strong personality - so she was able to cope.

What sets her apart from the endless stream of newly published books, is her sincere approach. You can tell from the size of her miniscule working space that she doesn't have a hell of a lot of equipment, and there's definitely no room for all the high-tech gadgets that do really cheffy things, so in turn, none of her recipes require us to have any of that stuff either. Some pots and pans, a good sharp knife, and some stirring utensils are all we need, she says, and if we top it off with good ingredients, then we're all set.

For the book, Rachel visited six different regions of France - Brittany, Bordeaux, Basque, Provence, Lyon and Alsace - where she'd gone out to meet the locals and the food producers, be it in their homes, on farms or at markets, etc. She immersed herself in their cultures, their traditions, and most importantly, their cuisines, and taking inspiration from each of these, she's stacked up a list of over one hundred of her own recipes that give us a food tour of France that we can recreate at home. Unlike Paris, which has that all-year-round touristy perfection when it comes to food produce, the regional areas thrive on the histories behind what they make, and use the seasons to dictate what is best to eat when. This is evident from the herby, floral dishes of Provence, or the spice-laden, festive eats from Alsace, to the rich, hearty gastronomy of Lyon.

Being asked if she's here to "fight for real food", she responded by saying it was more like a mission to discover and reveal the stories behind the food that our European neighbours eat; it's not all fine dining and complicated cooking, and no matter how hard you look, there are certainly no frogs legs here. Rachel's key is enjoyment, she wants us to take pleasure in following her recipes, whether they're the easy pop-it-all-in-one-pan-and-hey-presto kind of thing, or the slightly more refined, take-your-time-to-impress-your-friends extravaganza. In both instances, the recipes are short and simple, and where she's used french ingredients, she has listed English alternatives, so everything is do-able.

The book itself is a thing of beauty, and its clear to see that Rachel takes great pride in being part of the whole creative process - she's even responsible for all the cute little illustrations that run throughout. The photographs are all shot on location, straight after cooking, and the crew eat what was made straight after, there is no faffing around with food styling, and everything is done under natural light, which gives the whole thing a fresh feeling. She stipulates that she's "not just a pretty face", and even when it comes to the TV show, she doesn't just turn up and read a script, like many others do; she does it in her own way, and that's very honest.

Talking of honesty, Rachel admits to being a fully fledged croissant snob; it has be the butteriest, flakiest, most delicious one she can find. There's no point in having a crap one, when you secretly know that there are better ones in existence, as it will only end in disappointment. Which leads to questions on health; the French cuisine isn't exactly known for being 'light', so how does she stay looking so fabulous? Whilst "butter is better", it's all about quality over quantity, she'll have her cheese, wine, pastries, etc, but just not all the time. Actually, she tells us that the French are very much anti-snacking, and it's almost unacceptable to be seen eating in the streets. It doesn't matter if its a freshly made baguette, still warm from the oven, with the glorious boulangerie aromas wafting in your face, you must push those temptations aside. It's basically social suicide.

Being put on the spot once more, ol' Dickinson asked what he should go home and make from the book this Autumnal evening. A few umm's and ahh's, then some sticky ribs cooked in cassis, with a broad bean cous cous, was suggested. Failing that, what we were having for lunch would be perfect: Poulet Roti au Vin Rouge - or Roast Red Wine Chicken to the rest of us - a boozy bird from Bordeaux, with crisp potatoes, and plenty of herby vegetable accompaniments. If this was anything to go by, 'My Little French Kitchen' is set to be a winner, and even cooked for the masses, it was delicious.

Dessert was the Chocolate Basque Beret; a genoise sponge encased in a rich chocolate ganache, coated with chocolate orange shavings. We're told that the black beret is the sartorical symbol of the Basque region, so that's where the inspiration for the cake comes from. Rachel pre-warned us that this was for serious chocaholics, rich and doused in syrup, however, luxurious as it was, it didn't quite come across as this. Nevertheless, it's made me want to try and make it for myself, so by letting us sample a couple of dishes, this whole promo-event has done it's job. 

Book purchased and signed, this weekend I'm all set to gastro-trip around France in the comfort of my own home. I best go get my stripey shirt back out.