Showing posts with label chips. Show all posts
Showing posts with label chips. Show all posts

Tuesday, 21 November 2017

The Peacock Oxhill

South Warwickshire is pretty far to go for a midweek meal, but a few weeks ago The Chap and I ventured out to see what all the fuss was about.

It seems like every local blogger under the sun has visited The Peacock in Oxhill over the past 6 months, but now it was our turn... Truth be told, I'd had one of those nightmare days; I woke up late, traffic was awful on my commute, I had a rubbish day at work where everything I touched seemed to go wrong, ending with my car failing its MOT having to stay in the garage overnight. Ugh. The last thing I wanted was a 50 minute drive for dinner, but seeing as we'd had it booked in for quite some time, off we went (in The Chap's white van no less).

With our phones as satnavs, teetering on the 10% low battery mode, we hastily arrived having not taken in any of our surroundings. Get there quick or risk getting lost. Though in typical Cotswold village fashion, street lights were few and far between, so we'd have been lucky to see much further than our headlights anyway. C'est la vie. What I do know is that The Peacock is a 15th century pub located somewhere between Banbury and Stratford, serving cask marque beers and local home-cooked food. A proper pub then - that's what we like.

Through the doors you'll find lots of stone, a fireplace, wooden beams, seating at the bar, and a resident dog called Henry, though he'll ignore all your efforts to get him over to you as he's rather deaf - poor thing. There's a separate 'restaurant' to the side of the bar, with a peacock feather feature wall (quite late 90's Lawrence Llewelyn-Bowen Changing Rooms). I'm not entirely sure what the difference is between the two areas, other than one might be quieter during prime boozing hours, but from our experience you're more likely to get better service in the bar down to the fact that the staff can see when you've finished your food and drinks.


Drinks are cheap - £3.50 a pint and just over a fiver for a large glass of wine, nothing fancy - and there's lots of choice on the menu for eats. Want steak and chips? You've got two cuts to choose from. A beefy burger? It's topped with cheese, bacon and onion rings. Something saintly? There's a superfood quinoa salad. Something fancy? How about homemade crab ravioli with langoustine bisque?  It's all good value too; most mains are £13/14 with the most expensive being £23 for the rib eye, and starters/desserts are around the £7 mark.


After thrusting some pictures of the quail scotch egg with piccalilli, aioli, pork scratching and granny smith apple (£7.50) at The Chap the night before, he wanted nothing else. He's a die-hard pork product fan, and no one should get in the way of him and his piggy treats… I know my place. The diddy yolk was still runny - hurrah - and the meat seasoned and herbed. It looked good, tasted good, and had lots of little accompaniments to keep it from just being a scotch egg on a plate.


I was chuffed with my choice; homemade fishcake with wilted spinach, poached egg and hollandaise (£7). Made with salmon, smoked haddock and crab, it was more-fish-less-potato and much appreciated for that fact. There was another tick on the runny yolk front - phew - and whilst the hollandaise was beautifully buttery, it had enough acidity to stop the dish from being overly rich.


I bagsied the chargrilled 10oz pork chop for main course, served with melt in the mouth boulangère potatoes, confit red cabbage, pork bon bons and a thyme jus (£13). What a looker. The meat was tender, juicy, and not cooked within an inch of it's life as too many pubs do with chops, though as a result, some of the fat hadn't rendered down quite enough. No sweat, the salty pulled pork bon bons were a bonus and I loved the sweet-sour shift with the red cabbage - a little nod to Christmas. Oh, and I'm happy to report that there was enough jus to see me through (sorry not sorry).


The Chap was stuck for choice... Did he go for steak and chips (his beloved chippys!)? Or The Peacock's signature pie and mash? A little guidance from our waiter and he went hybrid; steak and red wine pie with hand cut chips (£13). There were some greens on the side too, but didn't get much of a look in. With the red wine jus on the side, the idea is to make a hole in the top of the pie and pour it in. The pot was only small so the worry was that the inside would be dry, but that wasn't the case. Jam packed with succulent beef, and that pastry...


Stuffed to the gills we probably should've skipped dessert, but thought we'd at least attempt one between us. The black forest mess was the lightest option, and in hindsight the one that they must make the most money on. £6 for some berries mixed through sweetened cream and crushed meringues. It was tasty - sure - but nothing I couldn't whip up in less than 5 minutes at home. Consider that a lesson learnt; I should've gone for the chocolate fondant like Sarah (Lewis Loves) recommended, though I'm not sure I'd have made it home.

Whilst I doubt I'd make the long drive to Oxhill again on whim, if I were in the area I'd certainly go back. The food coming from the kitchen is undeniably delicious and really good for the money - £65 for two courses each, two drinks each and a shared dessert. Never underestimate a village pub, especially one that stands proud like The Peacock.

Friday, 12 May 2017

Markham Farm British Asparagus at The Lucky Onion

As the weather starts to warm up and the evenings begin to get lighter, we mark the sign of an exciting new season. Gone are those hearty winter stews with comforting carbs aplenty, now's the time to put a spring in your step and embrace all things green and fresh. And other than the sight of little lambs leaping around the nearby fields, I can't think of anything more synonymous with this change than the first bite of British asparagus.

It can be such a struggle to eat the seasons when supermarkets are saturated with fruit and veg from across the globe, but seeing the healthy glow of the fat British spears in comparison to the limp or woody kinds you get throughout the rest of the year, it's pretty obvious why we should.

And so we come to The Lucky Onion, who are no strangers in promoting seasonality to their Cotswold customers. Last summer we were treated to an offer for lobster, chips and fizz, in autumn there was partridge and port, at the start of 2017 saw six Wright Bros oysters and a glass of Nyetimber, and now we have a celebration of all things asparagus.


Director of food Ronnie Bonnetti, ex River Café and Soho House, has created a selection of dishes with locally grown Markham Farm asparagus as the focus. Until July you can go to any of The Lucky Onion establishments and pick one, alongside a glass of Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc, for just £15 (though The Tavern's not included). Perfect lunch material.

Just before the offer launched in April, a whole bunch of fellow food lovers were invited to No. 38 The Park to test out the menu, and with the Cloudy Bay wine supplier on hand, we were definitely well watered too. Sauvignon Blanc is a classic pairing with asparagus - they often share similar grassy flavours - and New Zealand's Marlborough region is probably the most popular choice. We're all familiar with it, right? 


Grapes packed with punchy, crisp acidity can be an assault on the senses after a while, so I was so chuffed to find that we were being treated to other Cloudy Bay vinos too. Never-ending coupes of Pelorus non-vintage fizz were served before supper; 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, it had a quenching citrusy spritz more akin to an English Sparkling Wine over a toasty Champagne or sweet Prosecco. One I'll keep an eye out for. There was also a lovely Pinot later on in the evening; vibrant, youthful and perfect for drinking in the sunshine.

But back to the food... The first to come out was asparagus with Cacklebean poached egg and hollandaise. Those eggs (along with the chickens) are like local celebrities round here, and the rich orange glow from the runny yolk in contrast to the pastel coloured hollandaise is a thing of beauty. It tastes pretty beautiful too, just make sure you save some bread to mop every last morsel up off the plate; it's messy business.


Next was asparagus with brown shrimp butter. Pretty self explanatory. For something so small, brown shrimp sure make themselves known, and whilst I loved the flavour, there was something that didn't sit quite right with me. A few spears of asparagus don't get the chance to stay hot for too long, meaning the butter never really has the opportunity to melt. Don't get me wrong, I'm usually the first to be having bread with my butter, but I couldn't help but think a more liquidy shrimp butter would be better.


Saving the best until last, out came the asparagus with air dried beef, pea shoots and parmesan. The bresaola, from London charcutiers Cannon & Cannon, is nothing like the stiff cardboard kind you get pre-packed in the supermarket. It has such a clean flavour that it almost tastes sweet against the salty tang of the parmesan, and together with the greens it sings of spring. A total delight.


Now whilst you could just choose one dish to have with your glass of wine, it can be very tricky to make such a decision, so let me pose this idea to you... Chances are that you won't be dining alone, but if you were thinking of it be sure to grab a friend. Order all three dishes and get the three measures of Sauvignon Blanc put into a carafe, get a side of fries and have an asparagus sharesies feast fit for a king (or queen). It's a good idea, trust me. 


So be sure to visit No.131, The Chequers, The Wheatsheaf Inn and The Wild Duck soon to take advantage of The Lucky Onion's Markham Farm offer, but in the meantime here are some pointless asparagus facts...

  • Asparagus can help cure hangovers and protect the liver against toxins… Though I can confirm that it did not prevent an almighty hangover the day after ALL THE CLOUDY BAY WINE. Ouch.
  • Dubbed the Usain Bolt of the veg world, British asparagus can grow up to 10cm in one day!
  • And apparently it can improve your libido. Let's just end it there.

Monday, 27 March 2017

Weekend Brunch at The Bottle of Sauce


Now that Cheltenham Festival is over for another year, we can finally talk more sensibly about brunch. The past month has all been about promoting those gut busting, overloaded 'Race Week Breakfasts', no matter where you looked. I'm betting that the majority were easily more than the recommended daily calorie intake, and that's before you've hit up the Guinness for a full day, celebrated a win with some fizz and scoffed a large portion of chips on the way home. Can normal service resume now? I think so…

Last month, everyone's new fave hangout The Bottle of Sauce invited a group of us local bloggers for a special 'Bloggers Brunch'. You might remember their previous burger heavy event that I featured at the start of the year, though if not you can familiarize yourself with it *here*. Armed with appetites, cameras and phones - standard - we congregated in the private dining area (which seats up to 12) and perused the menu.



Despite not needing a 'hair of the dog', I'm not one to turn down some early morning drinking, so went straight in with a Bloody Mary. It's £6.50 for one, but if you're feeling particularly sorry for yourself then you can get Bottomless Marys for a tenner. The Dodo Pub Co have their own secret spice mix, of which they'll ask you your heat preference, and alongside vodka they use a splash of Tio Pepe Fino Sherry. Swoon.


The Bottle of Sauce's brunch menu generally has something for everyone; go traditional, sweet, healthy, or something a little different. As you might've guessed, we basically ordered the whole shebang. Surprisingly, the one dish we missed off was the Eggs Benny (£8.50), and also the side of Cheesy Chipotle Beans (£4), but I'll save those for next time.

The Chap wasn't with me for this one, so I had my gorgeous friend K there instead; someone who's much more willing to share. Bingo. Whilst everyone else was going in on the Boss Man fry ups (£10), between us we had the Chilli Avo' Smash (£7) - what's brunch without avocado on toast (?!) - The Big Squeak breakfast burger type thing (£6.50) and Buttermilk Pancakes for 'dessert' (£7). There were also a few plates of Breakfast Fries (£4.50) lurking on the table; salty fries topped with two fried eggs, runny yolks n'all. Probably more appropriate if having brunch after midday. Probably.


The Avo' Smash comes on a decent doorstop wedge of sourdough, and topped with two perfectly poached - and very Instagram-able - eggs. A good execution, but we both felt the chilli, lime and coriander were a bit tame. A wedge of lime on the side and some hot sauce on the table wouldn't go a miss, but that's coming from a citrus and spice fiend.


The Big Squeak is a bubble and squeak patty topped with american cheese, a juicy portobello mushroom and a fried egg, all in one of The Bottle of Sauce's signature glossy sesame buns. It's veggie, but you certainly don't miss the meat. The Morning Glory (£7.50) has a sausage patty and bacon if you really are a devout carnivore though. There's ketchup on all the tables, which I slathered on, but again I think a hot sauce would make it a knockout option. I'm sure if I'd have asked, the staff would have been more than happy to get some from the kitchen, but being in a big group with orders coming at various times, it wasn't very practical… Chilli sauce for the tables, yeah?


There are two options for the buttermilk pancakes, either Kelmscott dry cured bacon and maple syrup - classic - or what we went for, rum roasted pineapple and whipped coconut cream. It was news to me that you could whip coconut cream in the same way as regular cream; the consistency was pretty much identical. Mental note taken.

Three fat fluffy pancakes piled on top of each other seemed a decent portion for the price, and the chunks of sweet and sticky rum roasted pineapple were eye-rollingly good. We just needed more of it! It's like going out for a roast; there's never enough gravy. More pineapple and another dollop of that coconut cream would've sealed the deal. As it was, leisurely chomping our way through them and catching up over a latte was just fine (the coffee is crackin' here too).

So if you've only ever ventured into The Bottle of Sauce for a booze fueled feed of burgers, pizzas and wings, you should definitely try them in the cold light of day for their brunch menu. Don't go with too much planned after though, those Bottomless Bloody Marys might catch you out…


Friday, 10 February 2017

Burgers, Beats & Secret Eats at The Tavern Cheltenham

When The Tavern had to shut shop after a fire midway through last year, Cheltenham was at a loss. There are pubs and restaurants aplenty - you don't need me to tell you that - but The Tavern was the easy go-to, all-round crowd-pleaser, which never disappointed. Sure, we all begrudgingly found new locals to spend our pennies in, but it just wasn't the same.

Fast forward a few months and we were teased with #TavernReload; an opening date of the end of November was announced along with the promise to continue to deliver delicious food at reasonable prices. Hooray! The new menu was said to contain firm favourites alongside some incredible new plates, and extended opening hours of midday to midnight each day, staying open until 2am with tunes aplenty at the weekend. More Tavern fun for all.

Having eaten at the chef's table just before the fire, The Chap and I felt The Tavern was at the top of its game. Chef James de Jong was knocking out some sublime dishes alongside all the usual Tavern staples - burgers and various deep fried goods (though still no Spam fritters). It therefore came as a shock to see how stripped back the new menu was. No more traditional starters, mains, desserts. Gone are the seasonal meat, fish and poultry offerings (hogget chops, sea trout, sweetbreads and poussin for example). Even the Sunday roasts have been sacked off.


So what are we left with?... Burgers. Eight of them to be precise - nine if you include 'Burger of The Month' - with numerous toppings and sauces that you can pile them high with. There are chicken wings too - hot, sticky or BBQ - and four different salad bowls to attempt to get some of your five a day in.


There's a choice of three different fries in the sides and snacks section, along with a few oldies that you can cling onto; chorizo scotch egg, salt 'n' pepper squid, mac 'n' cheese... And I think that's it, apart from dessert. I'm yet to tackle the sinful shakes and the brand new Sundae Service, where you can be like a kid in a candy shop and build your own bespoke sundae from all the ice cream flavours and sweet additions you could fathom.


The Tavern's burgers were always my favourite in Cheltenham, so I suppose having a smaller, succinct menu means that they can focus more on quality. Do one thing, and do it really bloody well (4oz patties served pink using dry aged beef from local Stokes Marsh Farm if you're wondering). However, being devoted to what The Tavern was before, I'm just not sure it's burgers I want all the time.*

* The Lucky Onion elves clearly heard my concern, as little did I know that a 'secret menu' would be rearing its head in January... More on that in a bit.


Whether you're team 'before the fire' or 'embracing the new', choosing wisely from the menu is key. I'm a traditionalist in this area; I like my burgers left alone. A decent smothering of sauce, crisp lettuce, a slice of tomato and some gherkins. Cheese is a preferable addition too. So if this sounds like you, then the Tavern is what you want. I had mine with added roquefort, making it a bargain £7 and exactly what I wanted. Other toppings include an extra patty, bacon and avocado.

The Bacon/Cheese burger is what it is, and I've heard good reports about The Hog (with pulled pork and BBQ sauce) and the veggie friendly falafel burger (with roasted red peppers, harissa mayo, spinach and houmous). If you're after a chicken burger, but like the spice, I'd definitely suggest going for the Crispy Chicken and adding sriracha mayo or really hot sauce. I made the rookie error on my second visit and picked the Spicy Chicken which was just sriracha coated chicken breasts in a bun, not the crunchy coated chicken patty that I anticipated. My own fault for ordering with such haste. Impossible to eat elegantly too; the chicken was so juicy that the bun was soggy in seconds - yay for no dry chicken, boo for then having to eat my burger like a douche with a knife and fork. 


The Chap had the Chilli Cheese with green chilli slaw, Tavern cheese, lettuce, pickles and sriracha. He barely said two words to me once he'd tucked in, which is definitely a thumbs up, however I think it's probably quite important to note that it looked nothing like the photos I've seen on social media. All the burgers come wrapped up in branded paper with a sticker on top, regardless of whether you're eating in, taking away, sat a few steps away from the kitchen or downstairs near the bar. While it's perfect for Instagram, everything just ends up a bit squished, and as The Chap confessed to me after, he wants to squish down and tackle his own burger. 


The sweet potato fries are my personal preference, though I'd happily share the epic chilli cheese fries (pictured earlier) over a few drinks for £6. The buffalo hot wings are delicious too, but it's the honey, soy glazed sticky ones which never fail to win me over. And if we must talk about health, then the Asian Noodles salad was my fave; with slippery worm like udon noodles, cashew nuts, carrots, mange tout, roasted broccoli and miso. The Beets & Mozzarella with fregola, chicory and mint, whilst refreshing, was lacking in some sort of dressing. I expect it was just forgotten.


Mac 'n' Cheese was strongly recommended by a number of people who were lucky enough to go to a sneak preview tasting, so obviously we ordered it. It was love at first sight when we saw the bubbly cheesy crust on the top, which we basically had to crack to get into. The macaroni was swimming in a thick, cheesy sauce, and with every forkful there were streams of stringy cheese leading back to the dish. It was a little like Lady & The Tramp; a love affair with one woman and a bowl of Mac 'n' Cheese.


With some hits and a few misses in this new direction for The Tavern, I was beginning to think that maybe it'd just become a place I go to more for drinks than for food (and FYI the potent cocktails are an excellent match to the fried foods). However, a rather exciting undercounter menu reared its head last month, with small plates and snacks that hark back to before. Thanks to the lovely Lucky Onion folks, The Chap and I were invited to sample the secret eats, and we were SO excited. 


The Tavern Lemonade was a good start; non-alcoholic (shocking), with a big citrus punch to get our taste buds going. Then went straight in on the salty-sweet devils on horseback - dates wrapped in bacon with an almond in the centre. Salt cod croquettes are always a dream, and here they're crispy on the outside, silky in the middle, with just a squeeze of lemon juice to set off all the flavours. Simply does it.


More salty snacks came in the form of smoked anchovy fillets, peppers & crumbs. I could eat anchovies all the time; on pizzas, in sauces, straight from the jar... ALL THE TIME. So this little plate just sang to me. The slippery strips of red pepper added some sweetness, with teeny capers providing acidity and crumbs some crunch. The burrata, clementine & gremolata was a welcome taste and texture change at this point. Cold and creamy, cut into the voluptuous ball and watch it ooze. Pretty decent value at £8 too; I paid near enough a fiver for some not too long ago, and it was nowhere near this size. 


The quince glazed pork ribs with pickled red cabbage probably would've looked better piled on a plate rather than a large tray, but were awesome nonetheless. The meat fell away from the bone with nothing but a gentle push, and that sweet glaze… Mmm. I could take or leave the brioche buns that accompanied them though, especially when there's something as delicious as the sprout slaw available.  Shredded sprouts and other likely slaw culprits had been tossed in a mustardy vinaigrette dressing and studded with dried cranberries and pecans. I couldn't leave it alone.


Steaks were always pretty reasonable and perfectly cooked at The Tavern before, so I was glad to see 6oz flat iron with chimicurri on the Undercounter menu. I gawped at those glistening pink strips when they came out. You could just order this and some fries off the main menu and it's like nothing has changed.


Saving the best 'til last… Hereford beef & pork meatballs in nduja sauce. Three huge balls cloaked in this devilishly thick spicy sauce, adorned with wisps of parmesan. There's something I find so seductive about parmesan; watching the ribbons curl up and gradually become translucent as they get hot. That's not just me, right?… Anyway, just make sure you get these. They were definitely the stars of the show. 


So that's it. The Tavern in all it's glory. They say secrets don't make friends, but the new undercounter menu has certainly sealed the deal for me. Pals for life. 

Oh, and for all those old schoolers, you'll be pleased to hear that The French Dip is back for February!!! Braised short rib of beef, smothered in Stinking Bishop and sprinkled with jalapeños, all in a bun destined to be dipped in a slick short rib braising stock, which has been reduced down with red wine, caramelised onions and bone marrow. Who needs flowing arteries anyway?

Wednesday, 18 November 2015

New Chef, New Menus at The Tavern Cheltenham

Cheltenham be prepared. The rumours are true. Spam fritters are off the menu at The Tavern.

Whilst we all mourn the loss of the crispy battered pork product - deep fried giants fingers if you will - I can tell you that on the flipside to this, there are some excellent new additions to the menu, all thanks to the new Head Chef James de Jong (formerly of London's The Drapers Arms and Mission).

For those who don't like change, there are still a few of the classics; sliders, burgers, salt and pepper squid, mac 'n' cheese, sticky chicken wings, shoestring fries, and obviously the french dip (which I shamefully haven't eaten), But for those who do, there are tonnes of delicious things to sink your teeth into, with a changing 'specials board' and new sharing roasts... The slow cooked lamb shoulder with dauphinoise potatoes sounds like an excellent plan for Sunday lunch, yeah?


I've lost count of how many times I've been to The Tavern. Having friendly staff, good vibes and - most importantly - bloody good food is a recipe for success, and because of this, it's always my go-to place in Cheltenham. Eating or drinking - though preferably both - it never disappoints, and with my brother visiting from Belgium last Monday, I thought that it was the perfect occasion to try out the new dishes and show off one of our favourite haunts!

We started off with two of the bar plates specials; firstly, Wild Mushroom and Gorgonzola Arancini. If the earthy, umami rice wasn't good enough on its own, the tang from the Gorgonzola that oozed out of the centre made it even better. I'm glad there were three of us - one each - because I know there'd be arguments over who got the last ball if it were just The Chap and I.


Secondly, as a nod to the Spam fritter, another deep fried meaty treat; Pig's Head Terrine, packed full of capers, breadcrumbed and fried, served with a celeriac remoulade (again with more capers) and a lemon wedge. It's the dirty fried food that you'd expect, but with a touch more class I suppose. Rich, creamy, salty and sharp all at the same time, and whilst it was good, we each thought capers on capers was a bit overkill, and maybe would have preferred a sweeter fruitier sauce of some kind.

For mains, after lots of umm-ing and ahh-ing, we decided on Duck Ragu Pappardelle (The Chap), Onglet Butcher's Steak with Fries, Rocket and Tomato (The Bro), and Whole Roast Partridge with Braised Red Cabbage and Parsnip Crisps (me). Oh, and a side of Rosemary and Garlic Shoestring Fries; that's a given.

The thick satiny ribbons of egg yolk yellow pappardelle, intermingled with a gutsy tomato sauce, was just the comfort food needed after a long day at work, battling with the horrid weather. Duck's quite a fatty bird, so there was risk for it being all a bit too heavy, but it wasn't; there was enough in there to get a gamey taste with every mouthful, but not too much to make you struggle to finish the plate… Not that The Chap would ever struggle.

The onglet steak, also known as hangar steak, also known as butcher's steak (because butchers would often keep it for themselves rather than offer it for sale), is a cut which has a deeper, offaly flavour. Although it has many names to try and confuse you, the best way to cook it is simple; chargrilled - rare - every time. It's quite a loose grained cut of beef, giving it a tender melty texture, and with the salty chips, buttery béarnaise, and peppery salad accompaniments, it's a dish that's hard to be beaten. I thought it was pretty good value at £15.00 too!

Game season's probably my favourite of all, and the combination of partridge, red cabbage and parsnip is just the ticket for Autumn, My little featherless friend was cooked beautifully and was an absolute dream with the sticky braised cabbage. It felt like a proper hunter's dinner, though I should definitely have been wearing tweed, with a dog at my feet and a shotgun propped up against the table... Maybe another time.

Not thinking we could fit in dessert, our arms were twisted and we ordered the Chocolate Mousse with Honeycomb, Hazelnuts and Pistachios, with three spoons.

It wasn't the dark, intense-cocoa-percentage kind of mousse I was expecting; instead it was a crowd-pleasing milky version, gaining its elegance from the snazzy toppings and its incredibly fluffy texture. For some reason I always avoid the chocolate options on the menu, but I'm very glad I didn't this time.

As always, we had an awesome night at The Tavern; the new dishes are a refreshing change, and I'm looking forward to seeing what else Chef James de Jong brings to the Lucky Onion venue… In fact, The Bro liked it so much that he went back the next day for a burger before his flight back to Belgium! Job well done I'd say.


Check out The Tavern's Twitter account for up to date information on their events and menu changes.