Showing posts with label three course menu. Show all posts
Showing posts with label three course menu. Show all posts

Tuesday, 31 May 2016

Bank Holiday Lunch at The Wild Rabbit Kingham

Last bank holiday Monday, The Chap and I took a leisurely country drive off into the heart of the Cotswolds. I say leisurely, it was p*****g it down - I totally wish we had this Mondays weather instead - still, we were in good spirits because we were off for lunch.

Kingham was our destination of choice; a gorgeous little village in the Evenlode Valley, Oxfordshire. We've swung by a few times before - I'd highly recommend Sunday lunch at The Kingham Plough - but this time we had a different agenda.

The Wild Rabbit is a name that crops up in every local travel guide, and is often highlighted as being the place to stay if you're after a luxurious Cotswold retreat. They class themselves as being a re-invention of the traditional English inn – a place to eat, drink and sleep - and by 'they', I mean the Daylesford team. That's right, with Daylesford Farm and the Bamford Haybarn Spa already residing in Kingham, it's no surprise that Lady Carole Bamford wanted to widen her organic empire by taking on this 18th century pub. It's become a dream destination for food and drink lovers, the health concious, and those just wanting to escape the city life. 

The Wild Rabbit's dining room serves lunch and dinner seven days a week. There's a separate bar menu for the pub side, which serves smaller, heartier fare for a few less pennies. Where possible they use organic ingredients from their own garden - picked fresh each morning and delivered straight to the kitchen - and their menu celebrates seasonal produce from local suppliers... You'd expect nothing less.


Michelin named The Wild Rabbit as 'Pub of The Year' in their 2015 guide - high praise indeed - so we were excited to test it out, and having previously seen Executive Chef Tim Allen on BBC's Great British Menu, we knew we were in capable hands. 

Quickly ditching the car in the car park (my bird poo splattered Seat didn't fit in with all the shiny new Range Rovers), first appearances were great; wisteria creeps across the front of the building, with comedy rabbit shaped bushes inviting you in. Inside, you immediately feel countrified with Cotswold stone, leather wingback chairs, aged wooden furniture, a roaring fire and a handful of pub dogs. The dining room is through the back, over the well; it's big and airy with lots of stylish decor, a long central table (looking after the tempting cheese selection), and the open kitchen in the corner. 


The menu is concise; five starters, five mains (plus two steaks), and five desserts (if you include cheese as an option). They have a decent wine list too, though seeing as I was designated driver for the day, I couldn't get involved. Instead, it was just the one Bloody Mary for me whilst The Chap had a couple of Hooky beers. 


Sourdough slices slathered with butter, we awaited our first course. I opted for Mackerel, served two ways, with Yorkshire rhubarb, pickled cucumber and frozen horseradish (£13.50). I loved the contrast of the flaky cooked mackerel against the fresh tartare, but it was the horseradish ice cream that really wowed me. The Chap went for the Quail; roasted breasts, Morteau sausage, smoked shallot, confit leg and lardo raviolo, with verjus reduction (£13.50). I politely only tried a teeny bit of quail seeing as it's such a small bird, and it was gorgeous. 


My main course was Rump of English veal, fricassée of braised veal, confit shallot, onion purée and baby capers (£26.00), that I ordered with a side of buttery purple sprouting broccoli (£4). That juicy pink rump was faultless; the onions and mushrooms gave the dish a deep earthy flavour, whilst the capers added bursts of acidity, ensuring it felt light and spring-like. 


The Chap went for the 10oz rib eye steak - dry aged for 40 days and cooked over charcoal - which came with hand cut chips, Daylesford leaves and a sauce of your choice (£30). He picked the tomato-y Bois boudran, a new one for the both of us. No matter how tasty it was, the fact it came on a small(!) wooden board with individual bowls for each component was a little frustrating. It might look neat for presentation, but it makes the logistics of eating near impossible. That said, the chunky chips were so good that all could be forgiven, and thank god they weren't stacked up like Jenga! With such a thick crispy casing, they almost verge on being classed as roast potatoes; I'll be ordering a portion 'for the table' next time. 


White Chocolate, gariguette strawberries, Yorkshire rhubarb and buckler sorrel (£8.50) was my final course - something I'd spied on social media before our visit. Not only do the ingredients have me written all over them, but it was the most photogenic dish of the lot. Bright with height, sweet but tart, and it had a great range of textures - I do love the snap of chocolate and the crunch of meringue. 


The Chap had the Cheesecake with Braeburn apple and caramelised honey (£7). I didn't get a look in on this one - it must've been good - but I admired the glass-like sugar disc on top before me and my phone were batted away so that he could enjoy his dessert in peace. 


We moved through to the pub to sit next to the fire with a coffee and the paper, and were surprised with a couple of freshly baked lemon syrup madeleines as petit fours. Such a nice touch, especially straight out of the oven. 


The Wild Rabbit is by no means cheap, but where is in such picturesque Cotswold locations? A three course meal with a drink and service averages at around £60 a head, and whilst everything was cooked beautifully, perhaps we expected to be a bit more excited for the money? We both agreed that the starters were our favourite course, followed by desserts, then mains - those chips come in a league of their own. 

We'll certainly go back - I can see myself escaping for hours in its rustic charm - but next time we'll just try out their bar menu, and maybe adopt a dog to join us.

Sunday, 21 February 2016

Eckington Manor with Masterchef Professional Winner Mark Stinchcombe

A few weeks back, a group of us ventured over the Gloucestershire borders to Eckington. It was summer last year that we'd first all gone out for dinner together - having the tasting menu at Lumiere Cheltenham - and we'd planned this next date quite a while before Christmas. The reason being?… Masterchef.

As you'd probably have guessed, I am a massive food programme lover; if I'm not watching them at home, I'll be listening to them at work. And although there are probably a few too many on TV these days, Masterchef is one of the ones which draws me in every time. Unfortunately, whilst I'm drooling over the dishes on the screen, my list of restaurants to visit only gets longer and longer, sigh. 

As a stroke of luck, one of the chefs taking part (and wowing all the judges) was from a restaurant just half an hour away, and after a quick text around during one of the shows, we decided that we should all go. 

Fast-forward to Christmas Eve, when the title of Masterchef: The Professionals Winner 2015 was handed to Mark Stinchcombe, we were all feeling incredibly smug with ourselves having preempted his success and bagged a reservation at the restaurant he works at; Eckington Manor.


Mark is in fact just one half of the culinary couple behind Eckington Manor's kitchen. Him and his wife Sue - who has also appeared on BBC's Great British Menu - met whilst working at Le Champignon Sauvage, and having explored the edible offerings in various other countries together, they returned to the area to share their own vision for food.

With Eckington Manor's award winning farm, orchard, vegetable and herb gardens to hand, it's not been difficult for the pair to hone in their style. They honour seasonality, maintain natural flavours, and illustrate the importance of using quality ingredients. It's field to fork in every sense - the restaurant, cookery school, hotel - and in being on Masterchef, Mark has showcased this unique set-up to a much wider audience. It's now pulling in food fans from across the UK, and rightly so.

When we arrived, we were offered a drink at the bar downstairs, but seeing as it was 8:30pm and we were almost eyeing each other up to eat, we went straight up to the restaurant. It was full and had it not been pitch black outside, I imagine there would have been picturesque views out of the large windows. Sipping a glass of Champagne, we browsed the menu and nibbled on some tuile-like breadsticks dipped in a creamy truffle butter - a perfect start don't you agree?


Decision making was tough despite there being just four options for each course, but after committing, we were presented with an unexpected appetiser brought out by Mark himself. A little glass dish filled with a Waldorf Salad of sorts - celeriac panna cotta topped with blue cheese and walnuts - salty, creamy, refreshing, nutty and tangy; teased and tickled our taste buds in all the right places.


Warm bread followed, of which the pillow-like focaccia was the favourite.

My starter was the Eckington Manor beef tartare, radish, hazelnuts and pickled mushrooms. What surprised me was how delicate the dish was; beef tartare can be quite a punchy little number thanks to capers, etc. But here there was just a light pepperiness from the radish, texture and depth from the nuts, and a little acidity from the pickled mushrooms, leaving the flavour of the beef to be the star attraction.


The Guinea Fowl Terrine at the other end of the table looked perfectly formed, and I managed to sneak a taste of The Chap's Smoked haddock, leeks, macaroni and artichoke, which was a great arrangement of flavours. Our crisp glass of Riesling paired particularly well to this one.


Main course, I opted for Breast of poussin, chestnut purée, sprouts, confit parsnips and lentils. There was an air of Christmas about it, what with the chestnuts and sprouts, but the earthy lentils, sweet parsnips and purple flower sprouts made sure it was a far cry from your festive roast.


As lovely as it was - especially with the Pinot - sat next to the larger, architectural beef and pork belly dishes that surrounded me, it looked and felt like something was missing. The Chap's Pork belly, prune, sweet potato and spiced granola was a stunner. Reminding me of the piggy starter Tom Kerridge serves up at The Hand & Flowers, it was a fatty piece of meat complemented with dried fruit sweetness and spice.


For a £3.50 supplement though, I could have (and should have) ordered the Eckington Manor rib eye of beef and braised shin, caramelized onion, wild mushroom and red wine jus. It was by far the best thing on the menu, and the three of us who didn't choose it simply gazed longingly at its glistening beauty.


I suppose it's somewhat controversial serving mains without a hefty portion of carbs, but this seems to be something that Eckington Manor take pride in, and they've actually just won a Gold Award in the Healthier Choices Food Award scheme. It's certainly not to be confused with healthy eating - you won't lose any weight by visiting here - but careful choices and cooking techniques mean that you wont leave overly stuffed with a feeling of guilt.... Which leads me onto dessert...

I personally feel I had the best of the bunch; Banana bread, milk chocolate and banana sorbet, peanuts and caramel. Seeing as I'm obsessed with (as are a lot of other people) the combo of peanut butter and banana on toast, adding chocolate and caramel into the mix and hello! 


The Malted milk ice cream, praline, 70% chocolate and warm spices was served on a black plate, emphasising its naughty cocoa indulgence, whilst the pert Rhubarb soufflé and gingerbread ice cream came with candy stripes and a pretty-in-pink rhubarb juice - fun! 


We finished our meal with coffee, cocktails and petit fours down in the bar - a nice finishing touch - and settling the bill we were pleasantly surprised at the price. Three courses at Eckington Manor is £42 (plus supplements for specials), and with champagne, a few bottles of wine, dessert wine, cocktails and service charge, we ended up paying just over £80 each! I think we were all expecting to pay much more than that. 

Being the last to leave - as ever - we boozily chatted to Mark, expressing how much we enjoyed ourselves and quizzing him on Masterchef. As for his future plans, it turns out he's insistent on staying in his current position, with the desire to grow and expand the business alongside Sue and the owners of the manor. Great news for us local folk!

I'll consider it a lesson learnt; it's about time we took more notice of what's on our doorstep. Eckington Manor has been firmly put on the map... And I already want to return.

Eckington Manor, Hammock Road, Eckington, Pershore WR10 3BJ








Friday, 17 April 2015

Lunch in Ledbury - Verzon House Hotel

I'd booked a rare Monday off work this week for a belated Mother's Day outing, with my Mum (obviously) and my sister. We'd planned a trip to Cirencester for lunch and shopping but, for various reasons, we changed plans and ended up on the hunt to find somewhere to go for lunch. It had to be far enough away to still feel like a treat, but not too far as driving for hours just for lunch seemed a little pointless.

Following The Chap's Birthday Chase Distillery Trip last year, a group of us ended up at Verzon House and had a flippin' lovely dinner. Being in Tewkesbury, it dawned on me that Ledbury was only half an hour away, and considering none of us ever really venture that way, we decided to go.

I always panic when I'm put in charge of choosing where to eat; there's a lot of pressure! Thankfully, I needn't have worried; despite being the only people in there, it was lovely, and the food was just as good as I had remembered.. Though I'm surprised I could remember as I was more than half cut on all those tasty Chase Vodka samples!

A three course lunch at Verzon House is priced at £22, and considering their a la carte mains are around the £17+ mark, I think it's pretty reasonable. There are three options for each; one meat, one fish, one veggie, then a choice of two desserts or cheese.

To start I had a duck and peppercorn tagliatelle. It was deliciously rich, though with such a peppery punch, it wasn't overwhelming; the salty parmesan shavings and nasturtium leaves seemed to lift the whole dish and add a bit of freshness too. I would say though, the portion size was verging on being the size of a main! Good job I was hungry, eh?

My Ma and sister both chose the potted shrimp on toast, and although I didn't try any, their plates looked beautiful, and the addition of samphire was well received!

For mains, my sister had the wild mushroom risotto with chilli butter, whilst my mum went for the pork option; a massive grilled pork chop, presented with a puffed up strip of crackling, charred leeks and wild garlic mash that was piped onto the plate, all doused in a raisin jus. I should have taken a photo as it looked fantastic!

I thought I'd complete the set and go for the mighty fish and chips; haddock in a light but crisp batter, triple cooked chips the size of my arm, crushed peas, and a tangy tartare sauce, packed with piquant capers. All I needed was a beach, a wooden chip fork, and the sound of seagulls.

Despite feeling pretty full - I had to leave some chips, which is almost unheard of - we still thought it'd be rude not to have dessert. The pear and almond tart with clotted cream ice cream would've been my choice had I not just overdone it on pasta and potatoes; pastry might just have killed me off. All three of us then went for the hazelnut panna cotta with a chocolate mousse; no dessert envy, phew!

@WeWantPlates would've had a fit; not only was the panna cotta in a kilner jar, but it was also served on a slate! That aside, I think we made a good decision. An obvious nod to the famous hazelnut chocolate spread that seems to be all the rage at the moment, this was a more grown up, less sweet take.

Thick and creamy, with just a hint of nuttiness, the set panna cotta sat at the bottom of the jar (sometimes they're too much like jelly, which is not very enjoyable), with a milk chocolate mousse layer on top. Normally I'd be "dark chocolate or nothing", but that would've been way too bitter here. As it was, it wasn't overly sweet, and some chopped hazelnuts gave it texture. The little chocolate chip cookie on the side probably wasn't needed, but my coffee was ever so grateful for the dunking it allowed for!

With big windows that let the sunlight stream through into the dining room, Verzon House feels like a restorative and relaxing place to venture to for lunch, particularly with the likes of Ben Howard and Gregory Porter soothing your ears. Two and a half hours passed us by in a flash, and we left feeling like we'd had a grand afternoon out.

My only qualm would be that £2.50 is a princely sum for just a lime and soda - my coffee was the same price (!) - had I known, I'd have gone for a more interesting beverage to have with lunch. Nevertheless, it's still great value food-wise, and I'll definitely visit again... Probably for more Chase Vodka cocktails!