When The Tavern had to shut shop after a fire midway through last year, Cheltenham was at a loss. There are pubs and restaurants aplenty - you don't need me to tell you that - but The Tavern was the easy go-to, all-round crowd-pleaser, which never disappointed. Sure, we all begrudgingly found new locals to spend our pennies in, but it just wasn't the same.Fast forward a few months and we were teased with #TavernReload; an opening date of the end of November was announced along with the promise to continue to deliver delicious food at reasonable prices. Hooray! The new menu was said to contain firm favourites alongside some incredible new plates, and extended opening hours of midday to midnight each day, staying open until 2am with tunes aplenty at the weekend. More Tavern fun for all.
Having eaten at the chef's table just before the fire, The Chap and I felt The Tavern was at the top of its game. Chef James de Jong was knocking out some sublime dishes alongside all the usual Tavern staples - burgers and various deep fried goods (though still no Spam fritters). It therefore came as a shock to see how stripped back the new menu was. No more traditional starters, mains, desserts. Gone are the seasonal meat, fish and poultry offerings (hogget chops, sea trout, sweetbreads and poussin for example). Even the Sunday roasts have been sacked off.
So what are we left with?... Burgers. Eight of them to be precise - nine if you include 'Burger of The Month' - with numerous toppings and sauces that you can pile them high with. There are chicken wings too - hot, sticky or BBQ - and four different salad bowls to attempt to get some of your five a day in.
The Tavern's burgers were always my favourite in Cheltenham, so I suppose having a smaller, succinct menu means that they can focus more on quality. Do one thing, and do it really bloody well (4oz patties served pink using dry aged beef from local Stokes Marsh Farm if you're wondering). However, being devoted to what The Tavern was before, I'm just not sure it's burgers I want all the time.*
* The Lucky Onion elves clearly heard my concern, as little did I know that a 'secret menu' would be rearing its head in January... More on that in a bit.
Whether you're team 'before the fire' or 'embracing the new', choosing wisely from the menu is key. I'm a traditionalist in this area; I like my burgers left alone. A decent smothering of sauce, crisp lettuce, a slice of tomato and some gherkins. Cheese is a preferable addition too. So if this sounds like you, then the Tavern is what you want. I had mine with added roquefort, making it a bargain £7 and exactly what I wanted. Other toppings include an extra patty, bacon and avocado.
The Bacon/Cheese burger is what it is, and I've heard good reports about The Hog (with pulled pork and BBQ sauce) and the veggie friendly falafel burger (with roasted red peppers, harissa mayo, spinach and houmous). If you're after a chicken burger, but like the spice, I'd definitely suggest going for the Crispy Chicken and adding sriracha mayo or really hot sauce. I made the rookie error on my second visit and picked the Spicy Chicken which was just sriracha coated chicken breasts in a bun, not the crunchy coated chicken patty that I anticipated. My own fault for ordering with such haste. Impossible to eat elegantly too; the chicken was so juicy that the bun was soggy in seconds - yay for no dry chicken, boo for then having to eat my burger like a douche with a knife and fork.
The Chap had the Chilli Cheese with green chilli slaw, Tavern cheese, lettuce, pickles and sriracha. He barely said two words to me once he'd tucked in, which is definitely a thumbs up, however I think it's probably quite important to note that it looked nothing like the photos I've seen on social media. All the burgers come wrapped up in branded paper with a sticker on top, regardless of whether you're eating in, taking away, sat a few steps away from the kitchen or downstairs near the bar. While it's perfect for Instagram, everything just ends up a bit squished, and as The Chap confessed to me after, he wants to squish down and tackle his own burger.
Mac 'n' Cheese was strongly recommended by a number of people who were lucky enough to go to a sneak preview tasting, so obviously we ordered it. It was love at first sight when we saw the bubbly cheesy crust on the top, which we basically had to crack to get into. The macaroni was swimming in a thick, cheesy sauce, and with every forkful there were streams of stringy cheese leading back to the dish. It was a little like Lady & The Tramp; a love affair with one woman and a bowl of Mac 'n' Cheese.
With some hits and a few misses in this new direction for The Tavern, I was beginning to think that maybe it'd just become a place I go to more for drinks than for food (and FYI the potent cocktails are an excellent match to the fried foods). However, a rather exciting undercounter menu reared its head last month, with small plates and snacks that hark back to before. Thanks to the lovely Lucky Onion folks, The Chap and I were invited to sample the secret eats, and we were SO excited.
The Tavern Lemonade was a good start; non-alcoholic (shocking), with a big citrus punch to get our taste buds going. Then went straight in on the salty-sweet devils on horseback - dates wrapped in bacon with an almond in the centre. Salt cod croquettes are always a dream, and here they're crispy on the outside, silky in the middle, with just a squeeze of lemon juice to set off all the flavours. Simply does it.
More salty snacks came in the form of smoked anchovy fillets, peppers & crumbs. I could eat anchovies all the time; on pizzas, in sauces, straight from the jar... ALL THE TIME. So this little plate just sang to me. The slippery strips of red pepper added some sweetness, with teeny capers providing acidity and crumbs some crunch. The burrata, clementine & gremolata was a welcome taste and texture change at this point. Cold and creamy, cut into the voluptuous ball and watch it ooze. Pretty decent value at £8 too; I paid near enough a fiver for some not too long ago, and it was nowhere near this size.
The quince glazed pork ribs with pickled red cabbage probably would've looked better piled on a plate rather than a large tray, but were awesome nonetheless. The meat fell away from the bone with nothing but a gentle push, and that sweet glaze… Mmm. I could take or leave the brioche buns that accompanied them though, especially when there's something as delicious as the sprout slaw available. Shredded sprouts and other likely slaw culprits had been tossed in a mustardy vinaigrette dressing and studded with dried cranberries and pecans. I couldn't leave it alone.
Steaks were always pretty reasonable and perfectly cooked at The Tavern before, so I was glad to see 6oz flat iron with chimicurri on the Undercounter menu. I gawped at those glistening pink strips when they came out. You could just order this and some fries off the main menu and it's like nothing has changed.
Saving the best 'til last… Hereford beef & pork meatballs in nduja sauce. Three huge balls cloaked in this devilishly thick spicy sauce, adorned with wisps of parmesan. There's something I find so seductive about parmesan; watching the ribbons curl up and gradually become translucent as they get hot. That's not just me, right?… Anyway, just make sure you get these. They were definitely the stars of the show.
So that's it. The Tavern in all it's glory. They say secrets don't make friends, but the new undercounter menu has certainly sealed the deal for me. Pals for life.
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