Feast with a Chef: Orwells Restaurant

I've clearly had my blinkers on; for some reason Clare Hargreaves' Feast with a Chef events have completely passed me by. On Saturday 1st October I found myself at my first one, despite it actually being the 16th *bangs head on the table*.

Feast with a Chef brings great food, cooked by some of the country's top chefs, to the simple, informal setting of a village hall. There's quite the lineup when you look at the list of previous chefs; Ottolenghi's head chef Ramael Scully, The Kingham Plough's Emily Watkins, the king of fish Nathan Outlaw and Le Champignon Sauvage's David Everitt-Matthias, among many more. Mostly held in Bristol, though a few dotted around elsewhere, 100 guests sit supper club-style at long tables, making it a true community event. "Fine dining without the starch."

Leaving Gloucestershire behind, The Chap and I made our way to the pretty little village of Kirtlington, just outside Oxford. Chef-owners of Orwells Restaurant - situated in Henley-on-Thames - Ryan Simpson and Liam Trotman were in charge of cooking a four-course Harvest Feast. Not only very timely as we celebrated Autumn's arrival, but Orwells had just been named The Good Food Guide's Restaurant of the Year, and Ryan had made an appearance on BBC One's Yes Chef in that week leading up to the event.

Partners both in and out of the kitchen, Ryan and Liam have quite an interesting background; they famously walked out of their previous job at the Goose at Salome (along with other members of staff) over a dispute with the then owner Paul Castle. This was just weeks after earning themselves a Michelin Star. but prompted them to pursue their own venture - hurrah! 

Six years after opening, they've not only got Restaurant of the Year under their belt, but a GFG Cooking Score of 7/10, a place in the Top 50 list, 4 AA Rosettes and a 3 Gold Star rating for sustainability, possibly their proudest achievement. Ryan and Liam have become known for their planet-friendly approach to cooking, and try to utilise all aspects of their produce in order to offer more reasonably priced menus. They follow the nose to tail philosophy, grow 75% of the restaurant's fruit and veg from their own garden and, having beehives themselves, are particularly passionate about saving our bees.

Kirtlington Village Hall was full of chatter from locals, Clare's usual pop-up fans, a few new faces (like The Chap and I), and a bunch of Orwells regular customers. Little did we know that Ryan and Liam had actually closed the restaurant to be here... On a Saturday night! Lucky us. So with a brief introduction, the chefs squeezed themselves back into the sparse kitchen they had to contend with and the Harvest Feast began.

On the table we had semi-sourdough bread, still with the gaping holes you'd expect from a sourdough - perfect crevasses for the Rodda's Cornish farmhouse butter - just without the intense tang. From nearby Bibury, we had smoked Oxfordshire trout '99'; the mini ice cream cones never fail to make me smile with their childish charm, and the salty pop of the caviar ensured our taste buds were ready for the first course.

Sleightlett cannelloni with Riverford Farm organic beetroot, fermented garlic and watercress was handsomely dressed. The creamy goats cheese, delicately flavoured with lemony nutty notes, was a fine match to the sweet earthy beetroot and was wolfed down in minutes.

Next up, crayfish and pork, with sweetcorn, apple and celeriac. An interesting combo where land meets sea; the apple complimenting the crayfish whilst at the same time cutting through the richness of the pigs cheek. I felt the crayfish was getting a bit lost at times, so perhaps a smaller piggy piece would have created more balance in the dish. But who asks for a smaller portion of pork? No one. Ever.

The main event was Wiltshire lamb (from Walter Rose & Son Butchers) with Riverford Farm brassica, squash, pearl barley and salsify. Probably one of the finest lamb dishes I've had in quite some time, it epitomised the nose to tail ethos through using the rump, breast, sweetbreads and tongue (though you wouldn't have been able to pick out the latter as it was hidden in the barley). A tasting plate of lamb, and an example of expert cooking. Every mouthful was a dream, though I definitely felt myself craving a few more greens.

Dessert saw the appearance of honey on the menu, and cued Liam to explain his love of bees and why we should be doing more to save them. To cut the story short, bees are essential in pollinating the crops that form our food, and also the wild plants that grow across the country and provide food for much of our wildlife. If our native bees die out, the very fabric of our lives will change considerably and we're likely lose a whopping third of our diet. It's for this reason Orwells have their own beehives producing their own honey, and the Mill Lane honey sponge with salted caramel ice cream and honeycomb made sure we took note. It was the lightest sponge, heaving under the weight of the ice cream, with the fragrant sweetness being met with bursts of pomegranate sourness. Beautiful.

As the kitchen cleaned down and the last few glasses of wine were drank (there was a well priced 'by the bottle' list c/o Enotria & Coe), cafetieres of Origin Coffee and pots of Tregothnan Tea made the rounds. With this, we received our final little taste of Orwells Restaurant; homemade petit fours. Zippy passion fruit jellies tried their best to impress, but the raven blackberry and custard macarons were a clear winner amongst ourselves and our fellow diners. 

Clare's got a fabulous thing going on here; I'm still kicking myself for not having come across Feast with a Chef sooner. This Harvest Feast truly felt like a celebration of wonderful produce, and if that was what chefs Ryan Simpson and Liam Trotman could do in such a tiny village hall kitchen, then I'd love to see what comes from the pass at their restaurant... So let's all go to Orwells, yeah?

The next Feast with a Chef with Michelin Starred Chris Harrod from The Whitebrook is sold out, but keep an eye out for Clare's events next year. Visit her website or follow her on Instagram @larderloutuk to stay in the loop. 

The Lucky Onion Club Presents: Hemsley + Hemsley

Their faces line the shelves in your local bookshops and supermarkets, you'll have spied them cooking up a storm on your TV, they've just opened up their own café in Selfridges, and last month our very own Cheltenham was graced with their presence.

Yes, the Hemsley sisters seem to be unstoppable at the moment - not surprising considering that health and wellness is so en vogue - but somehow, in the midst of their busy schedules, The Lucky Onion managed to snap them up for a whole day. No. 38 The Park was host to the latest in The Lucky Onion Club's series; Lunch + Supper with Hemsley + Hemsley.

Jasmine and Melissa Hemsley, shook up the food scene a few years ago with their love of quinoa, spiralized courgetti, and cauliflower rice. And let's not forget their 'Boil Your Bones' campaign, telling people to get with their guts by drinking bone broth - not one for the veggies.

The pair profess that food should be delicious and nutritious, simple and sustainable. Health doesn't come from processed foods, so they've adopted a diet that's naturally free from gluten, grains and refined sugar. This holistic approach has clearly been a hit because they've just released their second book, Good + Simple, which sees more home-cooking recipes that promote the nourishing power of real food.

I've written about healthy, 'clean' eating a few times before - see my posts on Gizzi's Healthy Appetite and Simply Nigella - and I'm still unsure about the idea of cutting out food groups without proper cause (ie. allergies/intolerances). However, H+H's philosophy is different; it's not about being restrictive (they do say you shouldn't feel guilty for eating what you want), it's not a fad diet (they never work long term), they eat meat and drink alcohol (yay!), and there's zero calorie counting involved (they're very much pro-fat not low-fat).

The sister's new book is an honest guide for how to stay in tune with your body; 140 recipes with plenty of tips and tricks that will guarantee you can eat well at any time of the day. "Good food, good mood, good digestion, good health!" 

I popped along to the supper sitting at the gorgeous No.38, and upon arrival guests were whisked into the courtyard where Hemsley Collins' were being served up. Ketel One Vodka, raw honey, lemon juice and sparkling water - sugarless, but not so sharp that it blows your head off thankfully - a great summertime refresher.

There were around 50 people eager to see the girls, both local and from further afield. Actually, it surprised me just how many men were there, though there were admittedly quite a few who were dragged along by their starstruck partners. As we took our seats at the long banquet style tables, introductions were made, and H+H explained our menu for the evening; a selection of dishes from the new book.

We started with Seasonal Crudités, Multiseed Crackers, Minty Broad Bean and Creamy Cashew Ranch Dip. The crackers were made from a mix of buckwheat and chickpea flour, giving them a distinctive nutty flavour with a decent crunch, and a wooden board piled high with colourful veg always wins me over - especially peas in the pod! The broad bean dip was just as you'd expect, and the cashew ranch was rich and creamy without including any dairy (they use soaked cashew nuts).

Photo Credit: The Lucky Onion

Main course was Spiced Roast Chicken Thighs with Watercress Salsa Verde and a Green Salad. There was also a dish of Courgette and Cannellini Bean Lasagne to share between our table. Courgetti is one thing, but the thought of a pasta-less lasagne would probably have most Italians recoil in horror. They needn't though, the layered veg with sundried tomatoes and ricotta 'béchamel' is a saintly tasty alternative.

The chicken thighs - a one-pan roast with cauliflower, red peppers and fennel - were gently spiced with cumin, cayenne and antioxidant-rich turmeric. Crispy skinned and dressed with vibrant watercress sauce, it epitomised 'Good + Simple'. I do feel that the portion should probably have been for 4-6 people, not 8, as just one thigh each, with a small scoop of roasted veg and some lettuce leaves, didn't feel substantial enough - and I wasn't alone in thinking that!

Thankfully, we had two desserts to curb our hunger. Firstly, Carrot Cake with Honey Yoghurt Frosting. Made with ground almonds and sweetened with maple syrup, there was a harmony of flavours going on. It would be a great cake to make for those who can't eat gluten or have a thing about sugar, though I am a traditionalist; a fluffy sponge that's full of sugar, spice and all things nice is where my heart lies. That said, the tang of the yoghurt frosting was spot on, and I'll keep that in mind future bakes.

Photo Credit: The Lucky Onion

Jasmine and Melissa took it upon themselves to show us just how easy it is to make the final sweet treat; Chocolate Orange Bar with Clementines. Bish, bash, bosh. In the blink of an eye the coconut oil, cocoa and maple syrup mixture was done, and in true Blue Peter fashion, "here's one we prepared earlier!" Almost as easy as nipping to the shops to get a sphere of Terry's… Almost.

Chocolate grins all round, the night finished off with a cup of spicy ginger Pep Up Tea and a dairy-free, caffeine-free, coffee-esque Chicory Latte, both from their first book The Art of Eating Well. Obligatory photos and book signings followed too, and it was clear to see just how proud the Hemsley sisters are of what they've achieved. Even the cynics would find it hard to ignore their likeability, so good on 'em I say.

You can buy Hemsley + Hemsley: Good + Simple on Amazon for £12.49.

See The Lucky Onion website for more details on their events.

The Lucky Onion Club Presents: Sunday Lunch with The Ethicurean

Have you heard about the secret garden on the outskirts of Bristol? Okay, it's not that secret, its restaurant has won a number of awards in its time, but it's still a little off-the-beaten-track destination that rewards you with beautiful food and a magical Victorian walled garden for your efforts.

The Ethicurean has been on my list of 'restaurants to go to' for absolutely ages; it's not even that far, but for some reason I've never quite made it. So, imagine my excitement when our local food and drink pioneers, The Lucky Onion, announced that The Ethicurean head chefs Iain and Matthew Pennington were bringing their culinary delights to Cheltenham for a one off supper club at No. 131 The Promenade.

The Lucky Onion certainly know how to host the best events; we still talk about our Lunch with Fergus Henderson back in April (THAT pig's head and potato pie… *drool*), and also dancing with Gregory Porter until the early hours of the morning at The Ultimate Jazz House Party, as part of Cheltenham Jazz Festival. Insufficient funds meant that we missed pop ups with Valentine Warner and Sabrina Ghayour (this still haunts me - her book Persiana is one of my favourites), but there was no chance that we were missing out on Sunday Lunch with a restaurant that we've been itching to go to for ages, especially when it's right on our doorstep!

If you don't know about The Ethicurean, they're purveyors of entirely seasonal, local and ethical British produce. Sure, these are the kind of things that we have to take with a pinch of salt when see them printed on pretty much every single menu in every single food establishment across the country; but here it's different.

It's all about giving food a sense of place; The Ethicurean strives to look for alternatives to all the imported fresh produce and constantly look close to  home for the best ingredients. These are often foraged or shot a stones throw away from the walled garden, or grown within, giving them a true connection to the land. Every dish that leaves the restaurant's kitchen, therefore, has a story.

So, August 16th saw 'Sunday Lunch with The Ethicurean' at 131 The Promenade, and as all good Sunday's should start, we began with a Bloody Mary. Made in house, the heady, spicy, Worcestershire Sauce concoction, which had been left for a few days to develop the flavours, was mixed with Ketel One Vodka and tomato juice, then garnished with celery. It's a classic.

All the diners were invited to sit down at the long table, and it was time to get to know one another. We luckily had some great people either side of us, and with everyone enthusiastic about food and drink, conversation was easy. A brief introduction to Iain and Matthew Pennington, and the five course feast was under way.

First up; Ewe's Curd Courgette Flowers, Anise Gel and Sherbet. I'm guessing the big courgette flowers that we all imagined we'd be getting, stuffed with curd, were impossible to get hold of, as it was more of a courgette ribbon salad with ewe's curd, adorned with tiny orange leafy petals. I didn't mind, the combination of ingredients were still all there, and what a combination it was! The balls of mellow, ricotta like cheese were brought to life by blobs of aniseed-y gel, and the dusting of sherbet... Well. I'd never think to put sherbet over savoury dishes - surely it's just for Dip Dabs or Sherbet Fountains - but the fizz really added to the freshness, and it was bloody brilliant!

Next, the jazziest eggs I've ever seen. In fact, famous foodie Felicity Spector (who was also at the event) described them perfectly as 'disco eggs'. Gigha Halibut, Beet Kvass Fermented Egg, Tidal Greens. Thin slices of delicately smoked and cured halibut lay at the bottom, with the vibrant violet eggs and salty sea greens lovingly placed on top. 'Peackles' - lacto-fermented lovage peas - were the finishing touch, offering little bursts of acidity. The rich orange yolks in contrast to the other worldly purple stained whites made for an incredibly photogenic dish, and a damn tasty one too.

Lucky Onion Sommelier, Lionel Periner, had carefully matched wines to the dishes, so with this we had IGP d'Herault, Viognier, Domaine du Petit Roubie, France 2014. 'Ripe peach and pear and a touch of floral. Medium body with a perfect freshness and balance.' I'm a big fan of Viognier, and with the smoked fish, it was a great shout.

Main course was Beef Bavette, Burnt Aubergine Ferment, Mushroom Ketchup and Onion Powder. Just look at the juicy slices of beef; need I say more? The mushroom ketchup was deep and earthy, whilst still retaining the zippy sweetness that you find in your familiar Heinz brand, and the burnt aubergine and onion powder added extra layers of flavour as you chomped your way through the meat.

We had a glass of Pinot Noir, Collectable, Marlborough, New Zealand 2014 to go with it. Pinot and light meaty dishes go together like a dream - well, Pinot any time is a dream for me - and this, with 'cooked dark fruit flavours, smooth tannins and a juicy finish' matched the elegance of the dish exactly.

Our pre-dessert was a single marshmallow, but not as you know it. The Nigella and Anise Marshmallow was one of the best sweet things I've eaten for ages. Every experience I've had in toasting a marshmallow results in the same way; you wait for ages to get that desirable blackened char on the outside, and just as it starts to happen, you decide it's prime time to tuck in. Either you get the disappointment of it not being gooey enough, or you have a molten-stringy-sugar-beast to contend with. This cube of genius was neither. A torched crust encased a moussey mallow centre that my spoon glided through, and the salt, anise and nigella seeds made you sit up straight and take notice. I'll remember this for a long time.

Last but not least, a signature pudding from The Ethicurean; Sticky Toffee Apple, Clotted Cream and The Collector Vermouth. The guys at at the restaurant love Vermouth so much they've made their own using English wine, caramel, and a collection of twenty botanicals including herbs from the walled garden. They suggested either drinking The Collector alongside or pouring it over to create a boozy sauce - I drank mine, desperately praying for them to pour out some more... They didn't, but I wont hold it against them.

It was a giant sized square of sticky toffee apple cake, served with an outstanding clotted cream ice cream; it had that seductive squidge that requires you to start forcing it into your face as soon as it's put in front of you. It's exactly the kind of heart warming comfort food that you need at the end of your Sunday lunch, one which makes you want to retire to the sofa and snuggle up in front of a crappy black and white film on the telly. Perfect Sunday material.

To be honest, I was hoping that by going to this event I could tick off The Ethicurean from my ever-increasing list, however it's had quite the opposite effect. All the inventive dishes, featuring quality ingredients, quirky techniques and inspiring additions, has made me crave more; I must go and visit the secret garden for myself, and prepare to be wowed all over again.

The Lucky Onion Club presents Sunday Lunch with The Ethicurean from The Lucky Onion on Vimeo.

The Lucky Onion Presents: Sunday Lunch with Fergus Henderson

Sunday 19th April saw an exciting event in Cheltenham. They don’t come around too often, especially none of this calibre. It was hosted by The Lucky Onion at 131 The Promenade and I consider myself an extremely lucky onion to have been able to attend.

If you hadn’t have heard by now, Fergus Henderson was in town. Yes. FERGUS HENDERSON. And if you don’t know who he is, then you’re clearly not a proper foodie. Either that or you’ve been hiding under a rock for the past 20 years his famous St. John Restaurant has been open for. Though maybe I’m being unkind, you could be a veggie/vegan, in which case you probably shouldn’t read on.

Photo Credit: The Lucky Onion

Mr Henderson, with his ‘nose to tail’ eating, has achieved legendary status, and St. John isn’t just a restaurant, it’s an institution. Two decades is really quite something in restaurant years, particularly in London where there’s an endless stream of new openings, pop ups, street food stalls, cuisines and fashionable food fad joints. So how has he managed to keep going? By staying true to his food philosophy, that’s how. And having been diagnosed with Parkinson’s disease in the late nineties, Henderson’s 20 years of St. John seem to be even more exceptional. He’s proved that major obstacles can be overcome, and with such an intriguing enthusiasm and a thirst for 'the good life', he is surely one of the most popular chefs in living memory.

Photo Credit: The Lucky Onion

Now I’ve been itching to go to St. John every time I venture to the capital, but somehow I’ve never quite made it. The closest I’ve been is peeping through Clerkenwell’s window during a busy Saturday night service, and drooling over the doughnuts and welsh rarebits at Maltby Street Market, cursing myself for not being hungry, then doubly cursing for not thinking of getting something to save for later.

Sure, Henderson’s appearance is a little eccentric – small round glasses and pinstripe suits – and to many his food might be seen in that way too, but to me it’s anything but. He’s somehow charmed us into eating all the parts of the animal that we’d have otherwise ignored. It’s respectful, honest, gutsy (literally), and generally quite simply put together – none of that razzle dazzle liquid nitrogen faff!

Such bold plates of food are definitely worthy of Sunday status, and The Lucky Onion tapped into that with gusto. ‘Lunch with Fergus’ was a five course feast for 40 hungry guests, on one long table in the Crazy Eights part of 131 The Prom.

Excitement was through the roof in the lead up to the event, and as I strolled over to the grand hotel, nerves took over. Who was going to be there? What will I say? How was the afternoon going to pan out?... As soon as I walked in, Henderson’s familiar face was there. Trying my best not to make an idiot of myself or gawk at him in awe, I did manage to ask just one question without spurting some star struck ramblings. What he was drinking? Campari and white wine; otherwise known as a Bicyclette. Classic.

A cold glass of Nyetimber calmed my nerves, but I still felt like a very small fish in a flippin’ big pond. There were a couple of faces that I recognised, and everyone was being far too casual about the whole situation. Frankly, I just wanted to jump up and down with glee.

The Lucky Onion kitchen team were not only joined by Mr St. John himself, but also by St. John chef Giles Edwards, and it all kicked off with Brown Shrimp & White Cabbage. Little brown shrimp are never going to win in the beauty stakes, but they sure pack a lot of flavour. Sweet and salty, they were tangled up in the weaves of shredded white cabbage along with capers and herbs. The whole dish had a coating of lemon juice and olive oil, and it was a fresh, crunchy, and altogether quite a healthy first course.

Accompanying our lunch was some of Henderson’s own wine made from old vineyards in the Minervois, France; Boulevard Napoléon Granache Gris and Cabernet Franc, both 2012 and both a whopping 14.5%. I'm a big lover of a decent Cab Franc, which is exactly what this was, but it was the Granache Gris that really stood out. Clean and fresh, with a rich and creamy texture, it had a lovely smoky liquorice edge on the finish. I'll be hunting this one down.

Next on the menu was his 'signature dish'; Bone Marrow & Parsley Salad. Many wows were expressed as giant plates of the slowly roasted bones were brought out, and Fergus then came out to explain how we should construct our "happy bone moment". With big gestural movements, we understood that we were to get a slice of toast, scoop the bone marrow out onto it, top it with the parsley salad, and finally sprinkle over some wet salt. (Wet salt is the layer of salt beneath Fleur de Sel; it's greyer in appearance and has a more minerally taste.)

Voted as one of the greatest dishes of all times by food writer Tom Parker Bowles, the bone marrow (which I think were veal shin bones - but don't quote me on that) had a creamy jelly like consistency, somewhere between a paté and a panna cotta, and they were packed full of meaty flavour. The parsley salad, spiked with lemon, capers and thinly sliced shallots cut through it's fattiness, with the toast adding a desirable charred crunch. The salt made me salivate, after each mouthful I craved another bite, and the DIY aspect was not only fun, but got everyone talking.

The main course was another St. John fave; Pig's Head & Potato Pie. I guess anyone who's ever been to a hog roast in their time, has had experience of seeing some scorched porker's face; all the meat gets taken from the body with the head left in tact, which is inevitably later discarded - it's all for show. Well, none of that business here, the head's the star ingredient. Not just fleshy, not just fat, it made prime pie filling material. Then combined with potatoes and encased in the most buttery pastry, I'd say it was a pork pie made for the gods. A simple vinegary salad of watercress and roasted red onions is all that was needed to accompany it, and not a drop of gravy in sight!

To seduce our sweet side, we had a single scoop of Chocolate Ice Cream; truffle-rich, bittersweet and indulgent, a scoop is all that was needed! I've read about his FIVE DAY ice cream recipe for St. John, so I'm guessing this was it? Either way, it was divine.

Coffee and the most marvelous Madeleines rounded everything off. Having been bought a Madeleine tin for Christmas, I've been trying various recipes out, but none have tasted anywhere near as good as these. Fresh out of the oven, the light and springy sponges had a sweet honey butter taste, and the scalloped edges and recognisable 'nipple' on the back never cease to crack a smile. I fear I ate more than my fair share.

Clearly The Lucky Onion sure know how to host a soirée, and although I might have spent the next day in bed with a sore tum having pigged out so much, literally (my cursed IBD, nothing to do with the amazing chef skills!), I can put this down as one of my all time favourite foodie experiences. I can only hope that I get to go to another!

The above photos are from The Lucky Onion's Facebook Page. Check out Kirstie Young's blog post and also this snazzy video..

The Lucky Onion Club presents Sunday Lunch with Fergus Henderson from The Lucky Onion on Vimeo.