Fine Dining at Ellenborough Park

When you're looking for somewhere to go for dinner, no doubt you'll be asking friends who've been there, what it's like, who's written reviews about it, who the chef is, etc, etc.. At Ellenborough Park they've taken these "who"s to another level; a who's who of what's on your table - cutlery n'all! Stylishly presented in a handy infographic, this is different territory for a restaurant of this standard. It can sometimes be a bit daunting when you're face to face with a perfectly laid out table - with barely an inch to perch your elbow - so this is a refreshing stance.

The main man behind this idea - king of Ellenborough Park's kitchen - is proud Welshman David Kelman. You might recognize his name; he was one of the 24 chefs within the ninth series of the Great British Menu. Having achieved many respected and acclaimed awards over the years, David has just been named Chef of the Year at the Taste of Glos Awards 2014; he won the same accolade in 2013, so he's clearly doing something right. His restaurant, The Beaufort Dining Room at Ellenborough Park, proudly holds an accomplished 3 AA rosettes; this is awarded to outstanding restaurants where cooking is underpinned by the selection of the highest quality ingredients, consistently excellent timing, seasoning and judgement of flavour combinations and supported by a well-chosen wine list.

I'm yet to go for dinner, but The Beaufort Dining Room is one of Cheltenham's finest restaurants. It's situated away from the hustle and bustle of the centre, past Prestbury, at the foot of picturesque Cleeve Hill. With original oak panelling, Tudor fireplaces and stained glass Oriel windows, it provides the perfect setting for celebrations and special occasions. The A La Carte menu features classic British dishes with a modern twist, all using the best local produce - think Pan-fried Loin of Spring Lamb, Peas, Broad Beans, Leeks and Asparagus, Wild Garlic Potato Purée, Young Carrots & Honey Glazed Sweetbreads - drool. Two courses are available for £45, or three for £55, though a triumphant three course Sunday Lunch is £30 per person; great value!

I have visited Ellenborough Park once before, to sample their Afternoon Tea, and let me tell you, it was by far the best I've had in and around the area. Not only were all the elements executed to such a high standard - a serious choice of tea, quality sandwiches, fluffy scones (the blueberry and buttermilk was a winner), perfect patisseries - but even the plates/cups/teapots/cutlery were well considered. Apparently, the fine bone china was specially commissioned for the hotel; the designs echo the original features of the building, ensuring that the history is carried throughout the whole Ellenborough experience.

If you haven't planned your trip to the hotel yet (why haven't you?!), then perhaps following one of David's recipes might be of interest to you instead? Fellow Cotswold blog Rich in Flavour has shared David' luxurious take on boiled egg and soldiers, complete with asparagus, peas and air dried ham; I need to make this ASAP... Or how about fillet of cod with baby vegetables, saffron potatoes and tomato dressing? I'll salute my fave local foodie mag, Crumbs, for that one!

So how's this for size; thanks to David Kelman and Ellenborough Park, you can serve up these dishes at your excellently laid out table! Job done.

Farmer's Feast: The Wheatsheaf Inn Northleach

On a slightly warmer Saturday on the 20th of last month, The Wheatsheaf Inn in Northleach hosted it's Farmer's Feast. The event, which had an afternoon and evening sitting, celebrated all the fantastic produce that The Lucky Onion group get from their suppliers, whilst at the same time raised money for The Duchenne Children’s Trust. We took the opportunity to celebrate our recent good news (see here - eek!) and popped over for the lunchtime feast.

Meandering through the pub to get to the garden, we were greeted with a beautifully decorated marquee; rows of tables set up in a square, centred around giant jungle-like plant pots, hay bales instead of chairs to sit on, country-fied bunting - not the kitsch sort Cath Kidston would approve of - and string lighting to set the mood. The table arrangements were my favourite; hessian runners down the centre, plates, cutlery and glasses all laid out flawlessly, paper bags weighed down with soil showing the menu for lunch, potted herbs instead of flowers, a variety of squashes as centrepieces, and dishes filled with radishes, dolloped with mayo for nibbling on. They'd really gone all out. Not only that, but there was some incredible toe tapping and various musical instrument playing (even behind his head) from Stomping Dave. I defy anyone to watch him work and not have a smile on your face!

The event showcased some of the Cotswolds’ highest quality food and drink heroes; New Wave Seafood, Neal's Yard Dairy, Cotswold Curer, Dolcetti Gelato, Macaroni Farm, Butts Farm, Bobby Beer, Chase Vodka and Bath Ales. The huge amount of food that was included in our £35 ticket price was astonishing, and this generosity was returned by the fact that over the course of the day, and through an auction held in the evening, The Wheatsheaf Inn managed to raise over £12,000 for the charity!

If you've ever been to one of The Lucky Onion establishments, then you'll probably know how good their eats and drinks are (see my review of the opening of 131 The Prom Cheltenham), so it was inevitable that this would be something to remember. The lunch sitting hadn't sold out, which probably worked in our favour as we could spread out a bit; people must have been super squished together in the evening! It was very much a 'community spirit' vibe; sit next to some strangers, chat, share food and enthuse about what a lovely time you're having.

To start, we had huge charcuterie board courtesy of Cotswold Curer, served with cornichons, caper berries, fig and apple chutney, and an abundance of Hobbs House bread with Netherend Butter. I could have easily just stuffed myself full on this, but it was only the beginning.

Next up was the New Wave seafood platter; oysters, smoked salmon and crevettes, with lemon, mayonnaise and the usual garnishes - Tabasco and shallot vinegar. I'm pretty thankful a few people weren't up for oysters.. More for us! 

The main course was a beastly Gloucester Old Spot from Butts Farm; slow roasted, the pig was perfectly tender, with some delicious crispy crackling and a hefty amount of apple sauce to go with it. Large bowls filled with different salads were passed around to add a bit of health to the situation. However, it was definitely a case of eyes bigger than our bellies, as most of us couldn't finish our plates - the chap next to me bagged his leftover pork to take home to his cat!

Thankfully, dessert wasn't too heavy - a 'Seasonal Hedgerow Mess' - like a classic Eton Mess, with whipped cream and tart red berries, but instead of the meringue being bashed up and folded in, long fingers of the stuff protruded out. It did make us all giggle when it arrived at the table.

As if we'd not had enough, out came a cheeseboard with a selection of Neal's Yard Cheese; Stichelton, Stawley, and a soft brie-type variety that I'm not sure of (Tunworth?), served with oatcakes and quince jelly. Phwoar.

Drinks weren't included in the ticket price, so after The Chap polished off a couple of Bobby Beers - a classy local brew - we shared a bottle of Williams Chase Chateau Constantin red wine. It was light and fruity; a great partner to the feast we ate.

This is just a sample of the type of food that The Wheatsheaf serve; I've visited them a few times before, and they're always awesome (go for the Marathon Pudding.. you'll thank me for that). It has that rural retreat in a cutesy Cotswold village thing going on, but with the added bonus of boutiquey bedrooms and interesting interiors. I'm yet to venture over for their Steak Night in the Back Bar, which runs Sunday - Thursday from 6pm; £16 for 3 courses; no reservations, no choice, and a miniscule price to pay!

There's a Film Club in the snug on the last Thursday of every month, which seems very appropriate now that the weather's getting more winter-y (check their Facebook page for up to date info - though heads up, Elf is on the 23rd Dec!).

If this hasn't enticed you to go and visit, then I don't know what will. I shall definitely be keeping my eyes peeled for any future events that they hold, and you should too.

Outlaw's in Rock: A Nathan Outlaw Restaurant

A weekend trip to Cornwall at the end of August prompted a sneaky booking for Nathan Outlaw's brasserie in Rock. Obviously, having seen all the amazing fishy foods that he creates on the TV etc, we'd have loved to go to his 2 Michelin Star restaurant at the St Enodoc Hotel, but as always money dictates us more than we'd like, so the more affordable fare we went... Luckily, Outlaw's in Rock is situated at the same hotel - a reception desk distance away - so with the same location and the same stunning views over the Camel Estuary, it didn't feel as though we were missing out too much.

Being a little hasty in our departure, we were too early for our reservation, so thought we'd have a look to see what Rock had to offer. As we soon found out, there's not really much there. It seems like Nathan Outlaw is the reason that people visit the little Cornish town, and what with the two restaurants in St Enodoc, and his Mariners Pub down the road (a collaboration with the local Sharp's Brewery), it would seem he's turned it into a foodie destination.. Somewhat similar to Simon Rogan's takeover in Cartmel.

It had been quite a long drive with very little breakfast, so our tummies were rumbling before we'd even parked up. The hotel itself, with its pale lemon yellow painted facade, looks pretty retro; not somewhere you'd think would house a Michelin Starred get up. Inside, Outlaws in Rock has a much more contemporary feel to it; a large bar, plenty of art, interesting wallpaper, and huge floor to ceiling windows and doors, leading out onto a terrace overlooking the landscape.

Seated in prime position at the window - I ignored the fact it was raining - we perused the menus with a bowl of beautifully plump olives, bright in colour and bursting with flavour. As August basically obliterated my bank balance, instead of going a la carte, we opted for the Celebration Lunch Menu. This menu - at £25pp - sees a selection of Nathan's recipes from his latest book 'Fish Kitchen'; the three courses are picked to suit the season, and it enables visitors to try dishes before going home to cook them for themselves.

With a summer inspired lunch, white wine was required, and Outlaw's has a gorgeous list; every wine (thereabouts) is available by the glass, carafe or bottle - almost unheard of in the majority of places. As I was playing designated driver and The Chap was hankering after more than just a glass, we went for a carafe of Montravel 2013, Domaine de Perreau, Bordeaux, France (Sauvignon Gris, Semillon), priced at £20.25. We patted ourselves on the back for our good decision whilst tucking into the biggest slices of homemade bread; one, a springy, perfectly porous sourdough, the other a dark, yeasty Doom Bar beer bread.

Our starter was Crispy Bass, Pickled Carrots, Sweet Vinegar Dressing and Jalapeño Mayonnaise. "This simple dish is always popular, working well with a variety of fish, and the mayonnaise adds a lovely kick." 

The crunchy pickled carrots cut through the deep fried crispy fish goujons, which were - as expected - perfectly flakey inside. They made for great dipping material into the peppery jalapeño mayo, and the little squeeze of lime brought together all elements - a gentle nod to Mexico maybe?  

Main Course: Cod, Pancetta, Pickled Mushrooms and Grape Dressing. "Cod is a lovely, but subtle fish and wrapping it in pancetta really enhances the flavour. I pan fry it first to colour the bacon then roast in the oven. Pickled mushrooms for acidic, together with the sweet freshness of the grapes, work brilliantly with the salty bacon."

White fish (or chicken) wrapped in pancetta is quite a staple in many pubs/restaurants these days, but this was something else. It was a big, robust piece of fish - no messing about - and the mushrooms and grapes not only added a sweet-sour vibe to the whole thing, but also some finesse. I did think that a sturdier vegetable might have suited the dish better though; delicious as they were, the courgettes soaked up quite a bit of the oil that it was dressed with. 

Dessert: Strawberry and Elderflower Sorbet, Meringues, Elderflower Cream and Lime. "For me it simply isn't summer without strawberries!" 

This really was summer personified; fresh, floral, creamy, zingy, and prettily presented to top it off. Need I say any more?

Not wanting our lunchtime retreat to end, we plonked ourselves in the lounge area with a cup of strong coffee for me and a Nikka from the Barrel Whisky for The Chap. If Outlaw's hadn't impressed us enough, they brought out some sublime fudge and ginger biscuits to go with our drinks; such old school teatime treats, it was as if I'd gone to my grandparents (just these hadn't been within an inch of a packet in their lives).

Feeling both full and content, we left with a promise that we'll definitely return for the 2 star experience. But as for the excellent value lunch we had here, I'd say Outlaw's Rocks.. *cringe*

Outlaw's in Rock, St. Enodoc Hotel, Rock Road, Rock, Cornwall

PL27 6LA