The Ivy Montpellier Brasserie, Cheltenham

 The Ivy Montpellier Brasserie certainly needs no introduction. It's the snazzy big name that arrived to town just in time for Christmas, the place that was fully booked before it had even opened its doors, and the place that dominated all the local social media channels... Admittedly, I joined the bandwagon too.

But whilst the hype of the new begins to fade, and booking a table becomes a lot easier, I thought I'd share my thoughts and experiences (especially after an article by Gloucestershire Live on their Trip Advisor reviews... Slow news day perhaps?).

The former Lloyds Bank building has had more than a little spruce up, and it now feels as though it has found its purpose. Of course they've gone down the Cheltenham horse racing route - some of it tasteful, some of it too much - but overall, they've spent enough on it to ensure it oozes elegance.

The dome and the central circular bar really is a thing of beauty. This is where you want to be seated, and I've felt a little disappointed on the times where I've been ushered elsewhere. Fine in the daytime, when you can look out during your leisurely lunch to people watch, but come the evening, you miss out on the theatre of the bar. And that's worth noting; The Ivy does all day dining. None of this kitchen closure at 3pm that catches me out every time everywhere else. Breakfast, brunch, lunch, afternoon tea, and dinner, and as far as I can see, there's no weakest link.

The menu is extensive, with a mix of classic dishes - fish and chips, steaks, burgers - alongside ones with more of an Eastern influence - spot ingredients like ponzu, miso, wasabi and yuzu. Enough choice for the fussiest eaters, and plenty for those who'd like something fancier. Grilled whole lobster?... The food won't blow you away, but that's not what you come here for. You go to Michelin Star places for that. Instead, it's familiar, well executed, and consistently good.

The a la carte has gone through a seasonal change in the past month; the Atlantic Sea Scallops (£11.95) no longer comes with truffle risoni, parmesan, black truffle and sweet potato crisps - shame, it was a winner - but now a lighter spring time combination of pea purée with broad beans, lemon zest, sea cress and crispy shallots. The Soft Goats Cheese Salad (£6.50) with shaved apple with golden raisins, hazelnuts, pickled walnuts and Belgian endive has replaced the festive Stilton and cranberry version. And asparagus now features in many dishes.

The Ivy has a lot of main-stayers though; the dishes that do so well that they'll never be taken off the menu. The Steak Sandwich "French Dip" (£13.50) packed full of rare roast beef, with a rich Burgundy sauce and thick cut chips is a great shout for lunch. The Steak Tartare (£9.25) is also excellent, seasoned with Tabasco dressing, cornichons, shallots, parsley, and topped off with an egg yolk. And although I feared that the thinly beaten rump steak as part of the Steak, Egg & Chips (£14.50) was going to be tough and over-cooked, it was full of flavour and just as juicy as any other steak. Significantly cheaper too.

The Crispy Duck Salad (£7.95) features on the original Ivy London menu; warm crispy duck with five spice dressing, toasted cashews, watermelon, beansprouts, coriander and ginger. A very delicious thing it is too. And The Ivy Shepherd's Pie (£13.75) is legendary across the board. Slow-braised lamb shoulder with beef and Wookey Hole Cheddar potato mash; rich and comforting.

Before I forget, don't ignore the snacks. The Truffle Arancini (£5.50) are just as addictive as they are piping hot when they come fresh from the kitchen. And the mountain of Zucchini Fritti - courgette fries with lemon, chilli and mint yoghurt - could feed an army; a steal for £5.75.

On my last visit, I tried their Smoked Salmon & Crab starter (£11.50). The most rectangular pieces of salmon known to man, with a small amount of crab and dill cream and rye soda bread. Predictably "nice" but probably a poor choice on my front... Though not as poor as tuna "special" I had when they first opened. Not special at all as it turned out. We'll pretend that never happened.

My main of Roast Half Chicken (£14.95) was more than redeeming. Off the bone and flattened, with the best kind of crispy, crackling skin. A smattering of gremolata - could have done with more - and a few watercress stems - again, more - were a pleasant touch, but it was the generous helping of rosemary jus that really made it. A side of Baked Sweet Potato (£3.75) with harissa yoghurt and mint and coriander dressing was lovely, though Olive Oil Mashed Potato (£3.50) or Truffle and Parmesan Chips (£4.50) would've probably been better suited, if only to help mop up all that gravy. 

The desserts have it all; creamy, fruity, chocolatey, and a couple of options for each. Frozen Berries (£6.95) with warm white chocolate sauce for the more health conscious, melting Chocolate Bombe (£8.50) for everyone else. Watch as the hot salted caramel sauce collapses the chocolate dome, revealing a vanilla ice cream and honeycomb centre; showy, but not as showy as the Apple Tart Fine (£7.95), which gets its own Calvados flambé (and is the best of the bunch in my eyes).

The Lemon Meringue Alaska (£7.25) is also delicious; baked meringue with a tart lemon ice cream, lemon curd sauce and baby basil. It's a decent size too, so could easily be shared if you can't fully commit to dessert. But if you truly are stuffed to the gills, yet still want something sweet, I'd suggest going with the Salted Caramel Espresso Martini (£8.00). If nothing else, it'll give you a caffeine kick to help get you up and out of the door. 

Cocktails are pretty nice at The Ivy. My go-to is the Angel’s Share (£9.50), a long Mojito style drink that combines kumquats and kaffir lime leaves with Havana rum. Super refreshing. The Royale (£10.25) - their take on a Kir Royale - is a fine pre-dinner drink too; Champagne with a slug of Sipsmith sloe gin, Briottet Rose liqueur and hibiscus. However, if you want drama - of course you do - the Cotswold Passion (£10.25) comes complete with half a flaming passion fruit.

The wine list is maybe not quite as exciting though. There's plenty to choose from - sure - but a lot of them have a big mark up and quite a hefty price tag. Not unusual to be fair. And that said, I think we almost drank them out of Mosel Riesling on one occasion, slipped down very easily at £37 a pop. The Sicilian Frappato is a tasty red for £31 too. I just wish they'd leave the wines on the table; I don't want my wine in an ice bucket on the other side of the room. It's faffy having someone come and top up your glass every few sips, and it makes it really difficult to know how much you've had or how much you have left.

Which brings me to service. That's what The Ivy prides itself on. Here, I've had service so charming that I've gladly paid the 12.5% charge they whack on. Though on the flipside, I've had service so awkward and clunky that I've asked for it to be taken off (I hate being that person). I guess no one can be on their A-Game every single day, and with a restaurant with well over 100 covers, it must be tricky to juggle.

There are mixed opinions, there always are, but I think people forget that it is a chain. It's not The Ivy West Street, the iconic 100 year old London restaurant. It is a chain. Yes there are similarities, both in appearances and dishes, but it's just one of a number of grills/brasseries/cafés that have opened up across the country under The Ivy Collection name. 

No matter what anyone says, the Montpellier Brasserie is always going to do well in Cheltenham, isn't it? It'll get (and probably already has got) regular customers that come back week in/week out, its glamour will instantly catch the attention of visitors to the town, it will thrive during race meets, and that bar will forever be Instagrammed. 

Afternoon Tea at Malmaison Cheltenham

Us Brits do love an afternoon tea. It's an act steeped in history thanks to that early nineteenth century pro-snacker Anna the 7th Duchess of Bedford, and has always had this high society, upper class feel to it. Elegant and indulgent; sipping tea and nibbling crustless sandwiches and delicate fancies. Oh how the other half live!

It's no secret that I'm a lover of this ritual - at half past three, everything stops for tea - and have written about a few of my experiences before (see here). However, it really is one of life's little luxuries, and I only ever really go for afternoon tea on special occasions. Lets face it, if I were to scoff copious amounts of cake on a regular basis, I'd definitely start resembling the Michelin man in no time at all.

So, with that in mind, I was delighted when a little email arrived inviting me to Cheltenham's Malmaison to test out their afternoon tea (permission to gorge without cause granted). Soon enough, after a much needed half day at work on a Friday, off I went - friend in tow - to see what all the fuss was about.

In case you've been living under a rock for that past couple of months, Malmaison has found its home in what used to be Montpellier Chapter. From first glance, you can't really notice any change, other than maybe a couple of widescreen TVs in the lounge areas and a completely different menu coming from the kitchen, but that's fine; it was lovely hotel before anyway, so if it ain't broke, don't fix it - capiche?

It was gloriously sunny and were sat in the conservatory - slight risk of feeling like an ant under a magnifying glass on such a day - though surrounded by all the big leafy greens, with a gentle breeze coming through the open door, and a cold glass of Mumm Rosé Champagne in hand, we could hardly complain.

Malmaison's afternoon tea is a bit more contemporary than most - especially in comparison to the countrified Cotswolds versions. The triangular sandwiches have been ousted, instead being replaced by wraps and a burger; there's not a tart in sight, and we have a selection of gluten free goodies alongside a fruit smoothie?! Don't worry though, I very much doubt that there's an inch of health in that smoothie (healthiness doesn't come into question with afternoon tea - ever); it's basically a mini milkshake, and delicious it is too. Oh and there's a fruit scone, obviously.

Starting savoury, we headed to the burger first. A perfectly formed shiny bun, with a decent sized patty in the middle. Despite my doubts, it was super juicy and had just enough sauce, with a crisp lettuce leave adding a bit of crunch. Being a little pedantic though, we both felt it could have done with a bit more seasoning.

The wraps were a good touch - slightly less bread to fill up on - but I couldn't find much crème fraîche with my salmon. And with the chicken and avocado one, although the chipotle mayo had the right reddish hue, it wasn't smoky or spicy at all. C'est la vie.

The scones were crumbly and packed with fruit, but we were surprised that they came with mini jars of Bonne Maman - classic - but a jam made in-house or something local would've been more impressive. And we couldn't quite put our finger on what was different about the clotted cream either; it didn't have that thick gloopy texture you usually get, as if it was maybe a lower fat version…?! Clearly we're too used to Rodda's Cornish cream.

Struggling slightly, we worked our way through the sweet treats (admittedly not being able to finish everything). The lemon and polenta cake (GF) was just my cup of tea; slightly sharp, sticky and nutty. And I always approve of jazzing things up up with pistachios. The salted chocolate brownie was also gluten free, making it super moist and almost truffle like.

The pavlova was a welcome 'lighter' addition, and the meringue base held itself well; had it have been any more mallowy in the middle, I can imagine it'd have been near impossible to pick up and eat. The frozen summer berry smoothie acted as some sort of palate cleanser between each sweet, and I saved my favourite until last - the rhubarb cream. Tangy pieces of rhubarb in syrup lay at the bottom of a shot glass, topped with a set rich vanilla cream and a final layer of rhubarb jelly. A pick me up at the end of a weighty afternoon, although the tea spoons were a bit too big to reach the bottom of the glass - doh!

All in all, a hotel afternoon tea with a twist, and at £17.50pp with your pot of tea (more if you opt for champagne or cocktails), Malmaison has it at a really good price too. I'd say it's a lot more man friendly than most, and an easy crowd pleaser for the family. Perhaps not snazzy enough to take your mum for Mother's Day though - stick to Ellenborough Park for that.

Lunch in Ledbury - Verzon House Hotel

I'd booked a rare Monday off work this week for a belated Mother's Day outing, with my Mum (obviously) and my sister. We'd planned a trip to Cirencester for lunch and shopping but, for various reasons, we changed plans and ended up on the hunt to find somewhere to go for lunch. It had to be far enough away to still feel like a treat, but not too far as driving for hours just for lunch seemed a little pointless.

Following The Chap's Birthday Chase Distillery Trip last year, a group of us ended up at Verzon House and had a flippin' lovely dinner. Being in Tewkesbury, it dawned on me that Ledbury was only half an hour away, and considering none of us ever really venture that way, we decided to go.

I always panic when I'm put in charge of choosing where to eat; there's a lot of pressure! Thankfully, I needn't have worried; despite being the only people in there, it was lovely, and the food was just as good as I had remembered.. Though I'm surprised I could remember as I was more than half cut on all those tasty Chase Vodka samples!

A three course lunch at Verzon House is priced at £22, and considering their a la carte mains are around the £17+ mark, I think it's pretty reasonable. There are three options for each; one meat, one fish, one veggie, then a choice of two desserts or cheese.

To start I had a duck and peppercorn tagliatelle. It was deliciously rich, though with such a peppery punch, it wasn't overwhelming; the salty parmesan shavings and nasturtium leaves seemed to lift the whole dish and add a bit of freshness too. I would say though, the portion size was verging on being the size of a main! Good job I was hungry, eh?

My Ma and sister both chose the potted shrimp on toast, and although I didn't try any, their plates looked beautiful, and the addition of samphire was well received!

For mains, my sister had the wild mushroom risotto with chilli butter, whilst my mum went for the pork option; a massive grilled pork chop, presented with a puffed up strip of crackling, charred leeks and wild garlic mash that was piped onto the plate, all doused in a raisin jus. I should have taken a photo as it looked fantastic!

I thought I'd complete the set and go for the mighty fish and chips; haddock in a light but crisp batter, triple cooked chips the size of my arm, crushed peas, and a tangy tartare sauce, packed with piquant capers. All I needed was a beach, a wooden chip fork, and the sound of seagulls.

Despite feeling pretty full - I had to leave some chips, which is almost unheard of - we still thought it'd be rude not to have dessert. The pear and almond tart with clotted cream ice cream would've been my choice had I not just overdone it on pasta and potatoes; pastry might just have killed me off. All three of us then went for the hazelnut panna cotta with a chocolate mousse; no dessert envy, phew!

@WeWantPlates would've had a fit; not only was the panna cotta in a kilner jar, but it was also served on a slate! That aside, I think we made a good decision. An obvious nod to the famous hazelnut chocolate spread that seems to be all the rage at the moment, this was a more grown up, less sweet take.

Thick and creamy, with just a hint of nuttiness, the set panna cotta sat at the bottom of the jar (sometimes they're too much like jelly, which is not very enjoyable), with a milk chocolate mousse layer on top. Normally I'd be "dark chocolate or nothing", but that would've been way too bitter here. As it was, it wasn't overly sweet, and some chopped hazelnuts gave it texture. The little chocolate chip cookie on the side probably wasn't needed, but my coffee was ever so grateful for the dunking it allowed for!

With big windows that let the sunlight stream through into the dining room, Verzon House feels like a restorative and relaxing place to venture to for lunch, particularly with the likes of Ben Howard and Gregory Porter soothing your ears. Two and a half hours passed us by in a flash, and we left feeling like we'd had a grand afternoon out.

My only qualm would be that £2.50 is a princely sum for just a lime and soda - my coffee was the same price (!) - had I known, I'd have gone for a more interesting beverage to have with lunch. Nevertheless, it's still great value food-wise, and I'll definitely visit again... Probably for more Chase Vodka cocktails!

Outlaw's in Rock: A Nathan Outlaw Restaurant

A weekend trip to Cornwall at the end of August prompted a sneaky booking for Nathan Outlaw's brasserie in Rock. Obviously, having seen all the amazing fishy foods that he creates on the TV etc, we'd have loved to go to his 2 Michelin Star restaurant at the St Enodoc Hotel, but as always money dictates us more than we'd like, so the more affordable fare we went... Luckily, Outlaw's in Rock is situated at the same hotel - a reception desk distance away - so with the same location and the same stunning views over the Camel Estuary, it didn't feel as though we were missing out too much.

Being a little hasty in our departure, we were too early for our reservation, so thought we'd have a look to see what Rock had to offer. As we soon found out, there's not really much there. It seems like Nathan Outlaw is the reason that people visit the little Cornish town, and what with the two restaurants in St Enodoc, and his Mariners Pub down the road (a collaboration with the local Sharp's Brewery), it would seem he's turned it into a foodie destination.. Somewhat similar to Simon Rogan's takeover in Cartmel.

It had been quite a long drive with very little breakfast, so our tummies were rumbling before we'd even parked up. The hotel itself, with its pale lemon yellow painted facade, looks pretty retro; not somewhere you'd think would house a Michelin Starred get up. Inside, Outlaws in Rock has a much more contemporary feel to it; a large bar, plenty of art, interesting wallpaper, and huge floor to ceiling windows and doors, leading out onto a terrace overlooking the landscape.

Seated in prime position at the window - I ignored the fact it was raining - we perused the menus with a bowl of beautifully plump olives, bright in colour and bursting with flavour. As August basically obliterated my bank balance, instead of going a la carte, we opted for the Celebration Lunch Menu. This menu - at £25pp - sees a selection of Nathan's recipes from his latest book 'Fish Kitchen'; the three courses are picked to suit the season, and it enables visitors to try dishes before going home to cook them for themselves.

With a summer inspired lunch, white wine was required, and Outlaw's has a gorgeous list; every wine (thereabouts) is available by the glass, carafe or bottle - almost unheard of in the majority of places. As I was playing designated driver and The Chap was hankering after more than just a glass, we went for a carafe of Montravel 2013, Domaine de Perreau, Bordeaux, France (Sauvignon Gris, Semillon), priced at £20.25. We patted ourselves on the back for our good decision whilst tucking into the biggest slices of homemade bread; one, a springy, perfectly porous sourdough, the other a dark, yeasty Doom Bar beer bread.

Our starter was Crispy Bass, Pickled Carrots, Sweet Vinegar Dressing and Jalapeño Mayonnaise. "This simple dish is always popular, working well with a variety of fish, and the mayonnaise adds a lovely kick." 

The crunchy pickled carrots cut through the deep fried crispy fish goujons, which were - as expected - perfectly flakey inside. They made for great dipping material into the peppery jalapeño mayo, and the little squeeze of lime brought together all elements - a gentle nod to Mexico maybe?  

Main Course: Cod, Pancetta, Pickled Mushrooms and Grape Dressing. "Cod is a lovely, but subtle fish and wrapping it in pancetta really enhances the flavour. I pan fry it first to colour the bacon then roast in the oven. Pickled mushrooms for acidic, together with the sweet freshness of the grapes, work brilliantly with the salty bacon."

White fish (or chicken) wrapped in pancetta is quite a staple in many pubs/restaurants these days, but this was something else. It was a big, robust piece of fish - no messing about - and the mushrooms and grapes not only added a sweet-sour vibe to the whole thing, but also some finesse. I did think that a sturdier vegetable might have suited the dish better though; delicious as they were, the courgettes soaked up quite a bit of the oil that it was dressed with. 

Dessert: Strawberry and Elderflower Sorbet, Meringues, Elderflower Cream and Lime. "For me it simply isn't summer without strawberries!" 

This really was summer personified; fresh, floral, creamy, zingy, and prettily presented to top it off. Need I say any more?

Not wanting our lunchtime retreat to end, we plonked ourselves in the lounge area with a cup of strong coffee for me and a Nikka from the Barrel Whisky for The Chap. If Outlaw's hadn't impressed us enough, they brought out some sublime fudge and ginger biscuits to go with our drinks; such old school teatime treats, it was as if I'd gone to my grandparents (just these hadn't been within an inch of a packet in their lives).

Feeling both full and content, we left with a promise that we'll definitely return for the 2 star experience. But as for the excellent value lunch we had here, I'd say Outlaw's Rocks.. *cringe*

Outlaw's in Rock, St. Enodoc Hotel, Rock Road, Rock, Cornwall

PL27 6LA

Love Liverpool

A fleeting trip to Liverpool for a family party meant that I could scout out a couple of good places to eat and drink for the weekend. As you might have figured out, I like to taste my way around new places, and I'm most definitely one of those people who comes back from holiday fatter, not fitter.

Free Waitrose coffee firmly in place in the cup holder, off we went through wind and rain, competitively counting Eddie Stobart's along the way (I lost - by quite a few). Having set off on empty tummies, first stop was breakfast. Indie run Bold Street Coffee has quite a reputation in the city, three years in a row they have won best coffee shop in the Liverpool Food & Drink Awards, so it was a no brainer really. Having always been a fan of the caffeinated bean, I'm finding myself more particular on how I like my daily cup these days. I'm not opposed to the big chains such as Costa or Cafe Nero (I never go to Starbucks though), but the whole queuing to order, queuing to take your own coffee to the table kind of thing isn't a pleasant experience when you're trying to enjoy the act of 'going for a coffee'. Lets face it, they all look identical anyway, so, when I'm off on a jolly, I always make a conscious effort to find a decent independent joint.

Bold Street is a place for serious coffee lovers; various beans, various brews, and they have not-your-standard-Twynings tea for those crazy haters too. It's not the sort of place with slouchy leather sofas and big comfy chairs; it's no frills tables, chairs and long benches. You'll probably be almost too close for comfort to the neighbouring couple, but it doesn't matter, they're either too engaged in work-related-chats over their laptops, or busy nattering and tucking into their food. Which gets me swiftly onto the food.. Bold Street have a superb breakfast menu to complement their coffees, and at the weekend they're available all the way til 4pm; perfect for those persistant hangovers (I sure wish this place was my local). They have all the traditional's - bacon sarnies, a range of eggs on toast, etc - but done a little posher (this is no greasy spoon), and there's a healthy supply of pastries to tempt you at the counter. What sealed the deal for me, however, was the french toast made with sourdough. I could have had it with bacon and maple syrup, but cinnamon apples and a butterscotch sauce sounded much more appealing; served with a dollop of creme fraiche, I'd put it up there as one of my best breakfasts.

The chap and I hit the shops hard after this (in search of the perfect knitted scarf for me - don't worry, I found one), but all that shopping is very thirsty work, cue afternoon beverage. At the edge of Liverpool One is Salt House Tapas; featured in The Times' 2013 Food List, this charcuteria and tapas bar/restaurant is another Scouse favourite. Had we not already planned our late lunch, this place would have been a definite contender for eats, with plenty of breads/chorizo/serrano on offer. As it was, we simply ventured in for a drink, the chap had a beer whilst I had a ginger/lemon/prosecco combination. Despite it's central location, this place seems like a laid-back-graze-as-you-like-it-retreat, and the service felt personal, so would be a great venue for a multitude of occasions.

A bit of a trek up the road, and we arrived at 'my suggestion' for late lunch. Situated within the Baltic Triangle, in place of what used to be the artspace A Foundation, you'll find Camp & Furnace. It's pretty unassuming from the outside, but being three warehouses wide, this is not your average venue. The bar area is a good place to start; one giant table in the centre of the room, sofas snuggled up to the roaring fire, and dark corners for those kind of days where you'd rather not be noticed. They have a nice selection of wines, spirits and craft beers; perhaps try Brown Bear, which has been especially brewed for C+F.

In contrast, the room next door is a vast open space. Primarily used for events (and fortunately for the chap, they show the footie - not so fortunate for me) the room comes complete with picnic benches, retro caravans, a stage and an abundance of fairy lights; I imagine the late-night happenings are where this place comes into it's own.

As for eats, C+F is a bit like street food meets pub grub meets fine dining. They have interesting soups, stuff on toast, bountiful salads, burgers (note the 'legendary' chorizo burger), roasts, etc; there wasn't a single thing on the menu that I wouldn't have eaten, which is pretty unheard of. Forcing myself to make a decision, I had braised lamb shoulder, with pistachio cous cous, olives, saffron aioli and a scattering of toasted seeds. It was both beautifully cooked and beautifully presented, which you'd probably not expect from a place that is essentially a warehouse. The chap had a more manly meaty meal of braised beef blade, crisp pancetta, smoked onions and egg yolk ketchup (he does love a condiment). If this is anything to go by, their Food Slam Fridays and Social Supperclubs must be amazing. Camp & Furnace is well worth the walk.

That's as far as my taste tourism goes, the rest involved a boozed up party, with a dodgy disco, even dodgier drunk dancing, and a lot of wine spillages on my new dress (good job it was white not red). On that note, I best go collect my things from the dry cleaners; maybe I'll go out in my curlers like those Scouse gals do..

.. Or maybe not. Til next time Liverpool!