A weekend trip to Cornwall at the end of August prompted a sneaky booking for Nathan Outlaw's brasserie in Rock. Obviously, having seen all the amazing fishy foods that he creates on the TV etc, we'd have loved to go to his 2 Michelin Star restaurant at the St Enodoc Hotel, but as always money dictates us more than we'd like, so the more affordable fare we went... Luckily, Outlaw's in Rock is situated at the same hotel - a reception desk distance away - so with the same location and the same stunning views over the Camel Estuary, it didn't feel as though we were missing out too much.
Being a little hasty in our departure, we were too early for our reservation, so thought we'd have a look to see what Rock had to offer. As we soon found out, there's not really much there. It seems like Nathan Outlaw is the reason that people visit the little Cornish town, and what with the two restaurants in St Enodoc, and his Mariners Pub down the road (a collaboration with the local Sharp's Brewery), it would seem he's turned it into a foodie destination.. Somewhat similar to Simon Rogan's takeover in Cartmel.
It had been quite a long drive with very little breakfast, so our tummies were rumbling before we'd even parked up. The hotel itself, with its pale lemon yellow painted facade, looks pretty retro; not somewhere you'd think would house a Michelin Starred get up. Inside, Outlaws in Rock has a much more contemporary feel to it; a large bar, plenty of art, interesting wallpaper, and huge floor to ceiling windows and doors, leading out onto a terrace overlooking the landscape.
Seated in prime position at the window - I ignored the fact it was raining - we perused the menus with a bowl of beautifully plump olives, bright in colour and bursting with flavour. As August basically obliterated my bank balance, instead of going a la carte, we opted for the Celebration Lunch Menu. This menu - at £25pp - sees a selection of Nathan's recipes from his latest book 'Fish Kitchen'; the three courses are picked to suit the season, and it enables visitors to try dishes before going home to cook them for themselves.
With a summer inspired lunch, white wine was required, and Outlaw's has a gorgeous list; every wine (thereabouts) is available by the glass, carafe or bottle - almost unheard of in the majority of places. As I was playing designated driver and The Chap was hankering after more than just a glass, we went for a carafe of Montravel 2013, Domaine de Perreau, Bordeaux, France (Sauvignon Gris, Semillon), priced at £20.25. We patted ourselves on the back for our good decision whilst tucking into the biggest slices of homemade bread; one, a springy, perfectly porous sourdough, the other a dark, yeasty Doom Bar beer bread.
Our starter was Crispy Bass, Pickled Carrots, Sweet Vinegar Dressing and Jalapeño Mayonnaise. "This simple dish is always popular, working well with a variety of fish, and the mayonnaise adds a lovely kick." The crunchy pickled carrots cut through the deep fried crispy fish goujons, which were - as expected - perfectly flakey inside. They made for great dipping material into the peppery jalapeño mayo, and the little squeeze of lime brought together all elements - a gentle nod to Mexico maybe?
Main Course: Cod, Pancetta, Pickled Mushrooms and Grape Dressing. "Cod is a lovely, but subtle fish and wrapping it in pancetta really enhances the flavour. I pan fry it first to colour the bacon then roast in the oven. Pickled mushrooms for acidic, together with the sweet freshness of the grapes, work brilliantly with the salty bacon."White fish (or chicken) wrapped in pancetta is quite a staple in many pubs/restaurants these days, but this was something else. It was a big, robust piece of fish - no messing about - and the mushrooms and grapes not only added a sweet-sour vibe to the whole thing, but also some finesse. I did think that a sturdier vegetable might have suited the dish better though; delicious as they were, the courgettes soaked up quite a bit of the oil that it was dressed with.
Dessert: Strawberry and Elderflower Sorbet, Meringues, Elderflower Cream and Lime. "For me it simply isn't summer without strawberries!" This really was summer personified; fresh, floral, creamy, zingy, and prettily presented to top it off. Need I say any more?
Not wanting our lunchtime retreat to end, we plonked ourselves in the lounge area with a cup of strong coffee for me and a Nikka from the Barrel Whisky for The Chap. If Outlaw's hadn't impressed us enough, they brought out some sublime fudge and ginger biscuits to go with our drinks; such old school teatime treats, it was as if I'd gone to my grandparents (just these hadn't been within an inch of a packet in their lives). Feeling both full and content, we left with a promise that we'll definitely return for the 2 star experience. But as for the excellent value lunch we had here, I'd say Outlaw's Rocks.. *cringe*
Outlaw's in Rock, St. Enodoc Hotel, Rock Road, Rock, Cornwall
PL27 6LA
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