Showing posts with label TV Chef. Show all posts
Showing posts with label TV Chef. Show all posts

Sunday, 21 February 2016

Eckington Manor with Masterchef Professional Winner Mark Stinchcombe

A few weeks back, a group of us ventured over the Gloucestershire borders to Eckington. It was summer last year that we'd first all gone out for dinner together - having the tasting menu at Lumiere Cheltenham - and we'd planned this next date quite a while before Christmas. The reason being?… Masterchef.

As you'd probably have guessed, I am a massive food programme lover; if I'm not watching them at home, I'll be listening to them at work. And although there are probably a few too many on TV these days, Masterchef is one of the ones which draws me in every time. Unfortunately, whilst I'm drooling over the dishes on the screen, my list of restaurants to visit only gets longer and longer, sigh. 

As a stroke of luck, one of the chefs taking part (and wowing all the judges) was from a restaurant just half an hour away, and after a quick text around during one of the shows, we decided that we should all go. 

Fast-forward to Christmas Eve, when the title of Masterchef: The Professionals Winner 2015 was handed to Mark Stinchcombe, we were all feeling incredibly smug with ourselves having preempted his success and bagged a reservation at the restaurant he works at; Eckington Manor.


Mark is in fact just one half of the culinary couple behind Eckington Manor's kitchen. Him and his wife Sue - who has also appeared on BBC's Great British Menu - met whilst working at Le Champignon Sauvage, and having explored the edible offerings in various other countries together, they returned to the area to share their own vision for food.

With Eckington Manor's award winning farm, orchard, vegetable and herb gardens to hand, it's not been difficult for the pair to hone in their style. They honour seasonality, maintain natural flavours, and illustrate the importance of using quality ingredients. It's field to fork in every sense - the restaurant, cookery school, hotel - and in being on Masterchef, Mark has showcased this unique set-up to a much wider audience. It's now pulling in food fans from across the UK, and rightly so.

When we arrived, we were offered a drink at the bar downstairs, but seeing as it was 8:30pm and we were almost eyeing each other up to eat, we went straight up to the restaurant. It was full and had it not been pitch black outside, I imagine there would have been picturesque views out of the large windows. Sipping a glass of Champagne, we browsed the menu and nibbled on some tuile-like breadsticks dipped in a creamy truffle butter - a perfect start don't you agree?


Decision making was tough despite there being just four options for each course, but after committing, we were presented with an unexpected appetiser brought out by Mark himself. A little glass dish filled with a Waldorf Salad of sorts - celeriac panna cotta topped with blue cheese and walnuts - salty, creamy, refreshing, nutty and tangy; teased and tickled our taste buds in all the right places.


Warm bread followed, of which the pillow-like focaccia was the favourite.

My starter was the Eckington Manor beef tartare, radish, hazelnuts and pickled mushrooms. What surprised me was how delicate the dish was; beef tartare can be quite a punchy little number thanks to capers, etc. But here there was just a light pepperiness from the radish, texture and depth from the nuts, and a little acidity from the pickled mushrooms, leaving the flavour of the beef to be the star attraction.


The Guinea Fowl Terrine at the other end of the table looked perfectly formed, and I managed to sneak a taste of The Chap's Smoked haddock, leeks, macaroni and artichoke, which was a great arrangement of flavours. Our crisp glass of Riesling paired particularly well to this one.


Main course, I opted for Breast of poussin, chestnut purée, sprouts, confit parsnips and lentils. There was an air of Christmas about it, what with the chestnuts and sprouts, but the earthy lentils, sweet parsnips and purple flower sprouts made sure it was a far cry from your festive roast.


As lovely as it was - especially with the Pinot - sat next to the larger, architectural beef and pork belly dishes that surrounded me, it looked and felt like something was missing. The Chap's Pork belly, prune, sweet potato and spiced granola was a stunner. Reminding me of the piggy starter Tom Kerridge serves up at The Hand & Flowers, it was a fatty piece of meat complemented with dried fruit sweetness and spice.


For a £3.50 supplement though, I could have (and should have) ordered the Eckington Manor rib eye of beef and braised shin, caramelized onion, wild mushroom and red wine jus. It was by far the best thing on the menu, and the three of us who didn't choose it simply gazed longingly at its glistening beauty.


I suppose it's somewhat controversial serving mains without a hefty portion of carbs, but this seems to be something that Eckington Manor take pride in, and they've actually just won a Gold Award in the Healthier Choices Food Award scheme. It's certainly not to be confused with healthy eating - you won't lose any weight by visiting here - but careful choices and cooking techniques mean that you wont leave overly stuffed with a feeling of guilt.... Which leads me onto dessert...

I personally feel I had the best of the bunch; Banana bread, milk chocolate and banana sorbet, peanuts and caramel. Seeing as I'm obsessed with (as are a lot of other people) the combo of peanut butter and banana on toast, adding chocolate and caramel into the mix and hello! 


The Malted milk ice cream, praline, 70% chocolate and warm spices was served on a black plate, emphasising its naughty cocoa indulgence, whilst the pert Rhubarb soufflé and gingerbread ice cream came with candy stripes and a pretty-in-pink rhubarb juice - fun! 


We finished our meal with coffee, cocktails and petit fours down in the bar - a nice finishing touch - and settling the bill we were pleasantly surprised at the price. Three courses at Eckington Manor is £42 (plus supplements for specials), and with champagne, a few bottles of wine, dessert wine, cocktails and service charge, we ended up paying just over £80 each! I think we were all expecting to pay much more than that. 

Being the last to leave - as ever - we boozily chatted to Mark, expressing how much we enjoyed ourselves and quizzing him on Masterchef. As for his future plans, it turns out he's insistent on staying in his current position, with the desire to grow and expand the business alongside Sue and the owners of the manor. Great news for us local folk!

I'll consider it a lesson learnt; it's about time we took more notice of what's on our doorstep. Eckington Manor has been firmly put on the map... And I already want to return.

Eckington Manor, Hammock Road, Eckington, Pershore WR10 3BJ








Friday, 23 October 2015

'Simply Nigella' at The Cheltenham Literature Festival

The day after the publication of Nigella Lawson's latest cookery book, the lucky residents of Cheltenham - myself included - were graced with her presence at The Literature Festival. 'Simply Nigella', which also ties in with the new BBC2 series of the same name - set to air in November - sees the domestic goddess find a "true sense of balance between lightness and lushness." In an interview with the opinionated food heavyweight, Jay Rayner, she revealed more about her philosophy of food, what she means by 'simply', and how her healthy recipes should not be confused with the current 'clean eating' trend.

* My previous post on Gizzi's Healthy Appetite will tell you how I feel about the whole situation.*

We're all familiar with Nigella; most of us probably own at least one of her books - well thumbed and splattered with olive oil, or stuck together with cake batter no doubt - and as much as YouTube takes pleasure in splicing together her "seductive" cooking clips, watching her effortlessly assemble dishes on TV inspires a whole host of people to get into the kitchen… It also encourages me to sneak into the fridge late at night for an extra spoonful of dessert, but I won't hold that against her.

'Simply Nigella', she explains, is partly about getting rid of the unnecessary frills in cooking, but it's not just as simple as 'simple cooking'. The recipes are an antidote to the busy lives that we lead and understanding that different days require different ways of eating; be it quick dinners when you just want to flop on the sofa (Thai Noodles with Cinnamon & Prawns), a dish that enables some breathing space at the end of a long week (Massaman Beef Curry), stress-free crowd pleasers (Chicken Trayabake with Bitter Orange & Fennel), or soothing suppers (Miso Salmon, Cauliflower & Cashew Nut Curry).

Whatever the occasion, she insists it should always be pleasurable, and as such, the book is also about celebrating all the food that she likes to make and eat. Both naughty and nice, this is food that is 'Simply Nigella'.

Obviously there are plenty of indulgent treats in the book - Lemon Pavlova, Chocolate Chip Cookie Dough Pots, and not one but three recipes for Bundt Cakes (if you're going to make the effort to buy a bloody bundt tin, she insists you need more than one recipe to justify its worth) - but Simply Nigella also sees her take on the lighter, healthier side of food.

Cold pressed coconut oil has made its way in (which she also uses it on her feet - thanks for the tip), along with an abundance of avocados, and although Nigella's always been one to resist diets and food fads, things have changed. "While I have not gone gluten-free, or anywhere near, there are quite a few new gluten- and dairy-free recipes. Cooking brings me pleasure, but I also wish to bring pleasure to those who eat around my table – and since there is always a contingent in either camp, I want to make food they can eat," speaking to The Guardian.

When everyone has suddenly become more interested in the food they're consuming, health foods in particular, it would be a foolish thing to ignore. We're a nation obsessed by the aesthetics of what we eat; we Instagram the hell out of our avo toasts, vivid green juices and perfectly presented breakfast bowls. Expressing the creative beauty in food is certainly something that Nigella advocates, however, it all seems to have gotten a little misconstrued lately thanks to all this 'clean eating' chat.

With Jay Rayner's public love of piggy treats, we can guess where he stands on the situation, and he prompted Nigella to voice her opinions too.

'Clean eating' gives the impression that eating is dirty, shameful and something to be feared, she said. There's an air of smugness about the whole thing, and she's frustrated by the fact that people are claiming superiority over others just because of their virtuous eating habits. For Nigella, someone who has always been fuelled by greed (she said it - not me!), a restricted diet is not living wholeheartedly, and that's really quite sad.

So, although a number of the recipes in 'Simply Nigella' might attract the clean eaters, she states it's much more about the power of food; how different foods can make us feel well, make us stronger and give us the vitality we need and crave. Personally, I think I can get just as much 'goodness' from dipping saintly crudités into her Brocamole (broccolified guacamole if you couldn't guess from the name) as I could stuffing myself with her sage topped Sweet Potato Macaroni Cheese with a hangover.

Nigella's new book is one that will inevitably infiltrate the rhythms of our cooking lives, and healthy or not, the recipes are sure to make us feel good every time. Simply wonderful.

You can find some of Nigella's new recipes on the You Magazine website.

Monday, 20 July 2015

Hibiscus: 15 Years and 8 Memorable Dishes with Claude Bosi

Last month The Chap took me to London for my birthday; he'd done his research, and where we were going was meant to be a surprise, but quite frankly he could not keep it to himself! I don't blame him though; he'd pulled out all the stops by getting a reservation at Claude Bosi's Hibiscus.

Coincidentally, we were going during the month that the restaurant was celebrating its 15th anniversary, and throughout June they were offering diners an extra special eight course tasting menu, based on guests' favourite dishes from over the years. Quite a few people had cast their vote in the poll, which was then whittled down according to season and availability, producing a menu of the finest summer combinations... A summertime "Greatest Hits" if you will.

Claude Bosi originally opened Hibiscus in Ludlow, before relocating to London in October 2007. It has held two Michelin stars since 2003; has five rosettes in the AA Restaurant Guide 2015 (retained since 2003); it has a 9/10 rating in the Waitrose Good Food Guide 2015, and is ranked 5th in the UK. Flippin' heck.

Bosi brings together classic French cooking with modern techniques and the best ingredients from the British isles; a formula that has proven highly successful. And so, the celebratory £135 tasting menu - the crème de la crème of Hibiscus' 15 years - was one that we couldn't miss. And although we weren't going to go down the wine flight route (especially at an extra £95 each), after a chilled glass of Billecart Salmon Rosé from the Champagne Trolley - YES, A CHAMPAGNE TROLLEY - we were totally sold on the idea. We're weak, I know.

Looking back on it now, it probably wasn't the wisest decision, especially as our table was at 9.30pm, which was also way too late to embark on a mega tasting menu (we didn't have our final course until gone midnight!). No doubt these factors fueled the fire with the snooty people on the next table, and unfortunately their "we're so much better than you" attitude completely ruined the end of my spectacular birthday meal, leaving me exiting the restaurant in tears (the wine flight definitely didn't help with that either, haha). But enough about that, it happened, and we're actually returning to Hibiscus next month to make sure we leave with a smile.


The menu kicked off with Foie Gras Ice Cream, mango and sherry vinegar caramel, served with a fine flute of Alfred Gratien Champagne Brut, 2000. Since posting a picture of this on Twitter, I received a backlash of animal rights comments from randomers, but hell, it was worth it! A mini cone filled with sweet mango puree, topped with an unexpectedly light liver-y ice cream, swirled with a tangy caramel, and sprinkled with what can only be described as 'savoury crunch'. It gave your typical cornetto a run for it's money.


Next was the Clarence Court Egg with pea, coconut and Thai curry. I've had a "filled egg" at many a restaurant now - it's particularly favourable around Easter - but just like dippy eggs and soldiers at home, it still brings out the child in me. Fresh and fragrant, it made sure I was ready for more food, and the fantastic bread that came out (courtesy of Mikael Jonsson of Hedone), slathered with salted butter, certainly hit the spot too.


The delicate and dreamy Devonshire Crab dish, with gel like pearls of elderflower and new season almond was served with a 2013 Karner Gabor Rizling from Hungary; a beautiful match, and a beautiful wine! (No surprise - we're riesling fiends!)


The Spring Onion Ravioli was one I was looking forward to after seeing some photos of it on Social Media. With broad beans, lime, Moroccan mint, and a creamy sauce, the humble pasta pillow was elevated to new heights, and it confirmed that I should definitely order ravioli when eating out more often. It was partnered with a crisp glass of Les Enfants Sauvages Cool Moon 2012,  from the Roussillon region of France; the floral, stone fruit nature of the blend of Grenache Gris and Grenache Blanc, ticked all the boxes against the very 'green' flavours in the dish.


Although the Cornish Cod ‘Grenobloise’ isn't the most attractive plate of food you'll ever see, I must remind you that you should never judge a book by it's cover. Grenobloise is a classic French sauce, composed of capers, nutty brown butter and lemon - simple - but Bosi's version sees a cream coloured foam covering the entire plate. It's a rich-but-sharp sauce that, thanks to the aeration, doesn't leave your mouth feeling coated with butter, therefore, letting you really enjoy the other textures in the dish (i.e. the meaty flesh of the cod). It was matched with a glass of biodynamic Eugenio Rosi, Anisos, 2011, Trentino, Italy; the honey, blossom and nutty flavours complimented the cod 'Grenobloise' wonderfully, and the bitter finish cleansed the palate.


The next dish was Native Lobster with fresh cherries and black pepper sauce; a plate of food containing lobster and cherries totally has 'Lucie' written all over it. There were also some little deep fried lobster ravioli served alongside, which I could've scoffed all night long. The wine match for this was an orange wine, tasting a little sherry-like, Domaine Julien Courtois Savasol, 2008, from the Loire Valley, France. It was probably the only wine of the night we were unsure about.


Both of us agreed that the tenderest hunk of Milk Fed Veal with girolles, apricot and chervil was THE BEST course. The fact that it came with our only glass of red wine probably influenced this; Broc Cellars “Syrah 13.1” 2012, Sonoma County, California. The sweet meat melted in the mouth, and the earthy mushrooms were backed up by the black pepper, spice, dark fruit, and powerful tannins from the wine. Neither of us wanted it to end.

Photo Credit (as mine was blurry): Genuiness Blog

Our first dessert was Gariguette Strawberry, celeriac and szechuan pepper; a mini trifle of sorts. The combination of strawberries and pepper is not an alien concept, however, the nutty celery flavour with the szechuan Asian punch, felt inspired. It was partnered with Vial-Magneres Banyuls 2009, Roussillon, France; tinged gold, with full fruit flavours, it ensured us that we were in 'sweet' territory, then the final course sealed the deal.


A deliciously dark chocolate tart case, filled with a mousse of New Season Peas, infused with mint and topped with pop corn, toyed with our taste buds. The most perfect quenelle of snow-white coconut sorbet added an extra dimension; an English garden with a twist of the Caribbean! And with just enough naughtiness from the chocolate, freshness from the peas and mint, and creaminess from the coconut, it was a stellar end to the tasting menu.

Upsetting experience aside, Claude Bosi's Hibiscus rightly lived up to it's reputation; every course was a delight! And I'm just thankful that we get to go again in a month's time...


Hibiscus, 29 Maddox Street, Mayfair, London W1S 2PA

Saturday, 13 December 2014

Tom Kerridge & The Hand & Flowers

Early October saw Cheltenham Literature Festival return to our home turf. As usual, the brochure was jam packed full of exciting events and big names, which inevitably makes our jobs harder in trying to choose who to go and see. With a limited budget, The Chap and I could only really get tickets for a handful of things, but the No.1 priority was to snag Tom Kerridge's 'Best Ever Dishes' promo talk.

The nation fell in love with him from the start; a big burly chap with a cheeky grin, an infectious laugh, a thick West Country accent, and the ability to produce mouth-watering gutsy pub food that pleases everyone, including those ruthless Michelin inspectors! In 2011, The Hand and Flowers became the first pub to receive two stars in The Michelin Guide. It also proudly holds four AA rosettes and is currently voted number one UK restaurant by Restaurant Magazine - blimey!

Even though Tom's literally half the man he used to be, his charm was exactly the same at the event; we creased up laughing at some of his childhood tales, swooned over stories about him and his wife (the talented Beth Cullen Kerridge), and drooled at the descriptions of his recipes. We needn't have been too envious of all the delicious sounding food though, The Chap and I had a reservation at his pub, The Hand & Flowers, the following month!

It had been a LONG time coming; we booked it in January and could only get in in November! It was pencilled in as a belated anniversary trip, but thanks to a crazy turn of events, it turned out to be more of an extended engagement celebration. We stayed nearby at Danesfield House - George Clooney had a second wedding party here don't you know - and they were SUPER generous in helping us celebrate such a momentous event... Frankly, it was perfect.


I won't go into all the details of what we ate, you really only need to see how utterly awesome each course was. The food at Hand & Flowers makes no apologies for it's rich indulgence, and as a result, we could only manage one dessert between two. Whilst I'd normally stew in my own disappointment after situations like this, I'm in the fortunate position of having another reservation at the pub for my Dad's birthday next year. I'll make it my mission to make up for it.


We arrived early so we could have a couple of drinks at the bar; The Chap tried out the H&F beer, whilst I had the house G&T. In Tom's previous TV series, he went to The Ginstitute in London to create his own gin to serve at the pub, and this is it; I honestly consider it to be one of the best G&Ts I've ever had. With herbs and celery nestled in the glass, it was fresh and distinctly savoury. I also had a Monkey 47 with lingonberries, which was nice, but the first was so unusual it couldn't be beaten. 


Appetizers of sourdough and whitebait cured our munchies whilst we made tough choices on the menu (and scowled at neighbouring tables already tucking into their dinner). 


Not often choosing the soup option, I went against the grain and plumped for Lovage Soup with Bramley Apple, Smoked Eel, and Ham and Cheese Tortellini (£9.50).


The chap had Crispy Pig’s Head with Spiced Date Puree, Apple, Plum and Pancetta (£10.50), and I had a little piggy jealousy.


My main course was Barrow Farm Partridge with Black Pudding Purée, Morello Cherry Ketchup, Frosted Almond and Game Pie (£35.00) - perfect for this time of year.


The Chap had Essex Lamb “Bun” with Sweetbreads and Salsa Verde (£27.00) with a side of Hand & Flowers Chips (£4.50). This lamb bun was something else (at the back of the photo), and it needs explaining. A sphere of brioche/pastry with a cutlet bone proudly sticking out of the top; inside is a layer of cabbage encasing slow cooked lamb and sweetbreads and a final joyous nugget of lamb in the centre. Sat lonely on a giant plate, it didn't look like much, but boy was it deceptive; those cylindrical chips were never destined to be polished off!


For dessert we shared Blueberry Soufflé with Parma Violet Ice Cream and Lemon Verbena Syrup (£9.50). It was light, sweet, floral and a little sharp; and although we were forcing ourselves to fit it in, it was much needed after all the rich, salty food. YUM.


Our wine choice was Saumur-Champigny, Domaine des Roches Neuves - Loire, France 2013 (£40.50). Predominantly Cabernet Franc, it had layers of red and black fruits, elevated acidity, young tannins, and a seductive savoury earthiness. It felt like a very food friendly wine; its depth and intriguing quality complimented each of our courses wonderfully.

For me, The Hand & Flowers was a game changer; it's a completely different experience to any other Michelin starred restaurant I've ever been to. A meat-eater's heaven, the food is big - in flavour and richness - yet it still has the finesse that you expect from somewhere carrying two stars. 

It's not cheap, but after waiting 9 months to get a table, you really don't care; it totally lived up to all my expectations. And the finishing touch? Our doggy bag of leftover chips, which we scoffed the next day.


Cheers H&F, see you again in March! 

Thursday, 2 October 2014

Outlaw's in Rock: A Nathan Outlaw Restaurant

A weekend trip to Cornwall at the end of August prompted a sneaky booking for Nathan Outlaw's brasserie in Rock. Obviously, having seen all the amazing fishy foods that he creates on the TV etc, we'd have loved to go to his 2 Michelin Star restaurant at the St Enodoc Hotel, but as always money dictates us more than we'd like, so the more affordable fare we went... Luckily, Outlaw's in Rock is situated at the same hotel - a reception desk distance away - so with the same location and the same stunning views over the Camel Estuary, it didn't feel as though we were missing out too much.

Being a little hasty in our departure, we were too early for our reservation, so thought we'd have a look to see what Rock had to offer. As we soon found out, there's not really much there. It seems like Nathan Outlaw is the reason that people visit the little Cornish town, and what with the two restaurants in St Enodoc, and his Mariners Pub down the road (a collaboration with the local Sharp's Brewery), it would seem he's turned it into a foodie destination.. Somewhat similar to Simon Rogan's takeover in Cartmel.

It had been quite a long drive with very little breakfast, so our tummies were rumbling before we'd even parked up. The hotel itself, with its pale lemon yellow painted facade, looks pretty retro; not somewhere you'd think would house a Michelin Starred get up. Inside, Outlaws in Rock has a much more contemporary feel to it; a large bar, plenty of art, interesting wallpaper, and huge floor to ceiling windows and doors, leading out onto a terrace overlooking the landscape.

Seated in prime position at the window - I ignored the fact it was raining - we perused the menus with a bowl of beautifully plump olives, bright in colour and bursting with flavour. As August basically obliterated my bank balance, instead of going a la carte, we opted for the Celebration Lunch Menu. This menu - at £25pp - sees a selection of Nathan's recipes from his latest book 'Fish Kitchen'; the three courses are picked to suit the season, and it enables visitors to try dishes before going home to cook them for themselves.

With a summer inspired lunch, white wine was required, and Outlaw's has a gorgeous list; every wine (thereabouts) is available by the glass, carafe or bottle - almost unheard of in the majority of places. As I was playing designated driver and The Chap was hankering after more than just a glass, we went for a carafe of Montravel 2013, Domaine de Perreau, Bordeaux, France (Sauvignon Gris, Semillon), priced at £20.25. We patted ourselves on the back for our good decision whilst tucking into the biggest slices of homemade bread; one, a springy, perfectly porous sourdough, the other a dark, yeasty Doom Bar beer bread.

Our starter was Crispy Bass, Pickled Carrots, Sweet Vinegar Dressing and Jalapeño Mayonnaise. "This simple dish is always popular, working well with a variety of fish, and the mayonnaise adds a lovely kick." 

The crunchy pickled carrots cut through the deep fried crispy fish goujons, which were - as expected - perfectly flakey inside. They made for great dipping material into the peppery jalapeño mayo, and the little squeeze of lime brought together all elements - a gentle nod to Mexico maybe?  

Main Course: Cod, Pancetta, Pickled Mushrooms and Grape Dressing. "Cod is a lovely, but subtle fish and wrapping it in pancetta really enhances the flavour. I pan fry it first to colour the bacon then roast in the oven. Pickled mushrooms for acidic, together with the sweet freshness of the grapes, work brilliantly with the salty bacon."

White fish (or chicken) wrapped in pancetta is quite a staple in many pubs/restaurants these days, but this was something else. It was a big, robust piece of fish - no messing about - and the mushrooms and grapes not only added a sweet-sour vibe to the whole thing, but also some finesse. I did think that a sturdier vegetable might have suited the dish better though; delicious as they were, the courgettes soaked up quite a bit of the oil that it was dressed with. 

Dessert: Strawberry and Elderflower Sorbet, Meringues, Elderflower Cream and Lime. "For me it simply isn't summer without strawberries!" 

This really was summer personified; fresh, floral, creamy, zingy, and prettily presented to top it off. Need I say any more?

Not wanting our lunchtime retreat to end, we plonked ourselves in the lounge area with a cup of strong coffee for me and a Nikka from the Barrel Whisky for The Chap. If Outlaw's hadn't impressed us enough, they brought out some sublime fudge and ginger biscuits to go with our drinks; such old school teatime treats, it was as if I'd gone to my grandparents (just these hadn't been within an inch of a packet in their lives).

Feeling both full and content, we left with a promise that we'll definitely return for the 2 star experience. But as for the excellent value lunch we had here, I'd say Outlaw's Rocks.. *cringe*


Outlaw's in Rock, St. Enodoc Hotel, Rock Road, Rock, Cornwall
PL27 6LA

Sunday, 20 October 2013

Khool French Kitchen

Last weekend I found myself at another foodie event at the Literature Festival, 'Lunch with Rachel Khoo'. The British born kitchen queen, who actually has a degree in Art & Design from Central Saint Martins (yep - art & food - pretty much THE dream), is famed for cooking in her tiny Parisian apartment, where, in days gone by, she hosted intimate supper clubs for just a handful of people. Lured to the French capital by the exquisite patisserie, she studied pastry at Le Cordon Bleu, and has since thrown herself into the world of food. Her first TV show/cookery book 'The Little Paris Kitchen' was a global success, and with the release of her new book 'My Little French Kitchen', this event gave her the chance to divulge more about it, along with the attendees being able to taste a few of her recipes.

I suppose it was more like an 'in conversation with..' kind of thing, and the interviewer, who seemed like a less orange David Dickinson, started off very straight to the point. "There are so many cookbooks around these days, so why should we buy yours?" Phwoar. Bombshell. Luckily, Rachel is just as she appears on TV - very bubbily with a strong personality - so she was able to cope.

What sets her apart from the endless stream of newly published books, is her sincere approach. You can tell from the size of her miniscule working space that she doesn't have a hell of a lot of equipment, and there's definitely no room for all the high-tech gadgets that do really cheffy things, so in turn, none of her recipes require us to have any of that stuff either. Some pots and pans, a good sharp knife, and some stirring utensils are all we need, she says, and if we top it off with good ingredients, then we're all set.

For the book, Rachel visited six different regions of France - Brittany, Bordeaux, Basque, Provence, Lyon and Alsace - where she'd gone out to meet the locals and the food producers, be it in their homes, on farms or at markets, etc. She immersed herself in their cultures, their traditions, and most importantly, their cuisines, and taking inspiration from each of these, she's stacked up a list of over one hundred of her own recipes that give us a food tour of France that we can recreate at home. Unlike Paris, which has that all-year-round touristy perfection when it comes to food produce, the regional areas thrive on the histories behind what they make, and use the seasons to dictate what is best to eat when. This is evident from the herby, floral dishes of Provence, or the spice-laden, festive eats from Alsace, to the rich, hearty gastronomy of Lyon.

Being asked if she's here to "fight for real food", she responded by saying it was more like a mission to discover and reveal the stories behind the food that our European neighbours eat; it's not all fine dining and complicated cooking, and no matter how hard you look, there are certainly no frogs legs here. Rachel's key is enjoyment, she wants us to take pleasure in following her recipes, whether they're the easy pop-it-all-in-one-pan-and-hey-presto kind of thing, or the slightly more refined, take-your-time-to-impress-your-friends extravaganza. In both instances, the recipes are short and simple, and where she's used french ingredients, she has listed English alternatives, so everything is do-able.

The book itself is a thing of beauty, and its clear to see that Rachel takes great pride in being part of the whole creative process - she's even responsible for all the cute little illustrations that run throughout. The photographs are all shot on location, straight after cooking, and the crew eat what was made straight after, there is no faffing around with food styling, and everything is done under natural light, which gives the whole thing a fresh feeling. She stipulates that she's "not just a pretty face", and even when it comes to the TV show, she doesn't just turn up and read a script, like many others do; she does it in her own way, and that's very honest.

Talking of honesty, Rachel admits to being a fully fledged croissant snob; it has be the butteriest, flakiest, most delicious one she can find. There's no point in having a crap one, when you secretly know that there are better ones in existence, as it will only end in disappointment. Which leads to questions on health; the French cuisine isn't exactly known for being 'light', so how does she stay looking so fabulous? Whilst "butter is better", it's all about quality over quantity, she'll have her cheese, wine, pastries, etc, but just not all the time. Actually, she tells us that the French are very much anti-snacking, and it's almost unacceptable to be seen eating in the streets. It doesn't matter if its a freshly made baguette, still warm from the oven, with the glorious boulangerie aromas wafting in your face, you must push those temptations aside. It's basically social suicide.

Being put on the spot once more, ol' Dickinson asked what he should go home and make from the book this Autumnal evening. A few umm's and ahh's, then some sticky ribs cooked in cassis, with a broad bean cous cous, was suggested. Failing that, what we were having for lunch would be perfect: Poulet Roti au Vin Rouge - or Roast Red Wine Chicken to the rest of us - a boozy bird from Bordeaux, with crisp potatoes, and plenty of herby vegetable accompaniments. If this was anything to go by, 'My Little French Kitchen' is set to be a winner, and even cooked for the masses, it was delicious.

Dessert was the Chocolate Basque Beret; a genoise sponge encased in a rich chocolate ganache, coated with chocolate orange shavings. We're told that the black beret is the sartorical symbol of the Basque region, so that's where the inspiration for the cake comes from. Rachel pre-warned us that this was for serious chocaholics, rich and doused in syrup, however, luxurious as it was, it didn't quite come across as this. Nevertheless, it's made me want to try and make it for myself, so by letting us sample a couple of dishes, this whole promo-event has done it's job. 

Book purchased and signed, this weekend I'm all set to gastro-trip around France in the comfort of my own home. I best go get my stripey shirt back out.