Hibiscus: 15 Years and 8 Memorable Dishes with Claude Bosi

Last month The Chap took me to London for my birthday; he'd done his research, and where we were going was meant to be a surprise, but quite frankly he could not keep it to himself! I don't blame him though; he'd pulled out all the stops by getting a reservation at Claude Bosi's Hibiscus.

Coincidentally, we were going during the month that the restaurant was celebrating its 15th anniversary, and throughout June they were offering diners an extra special eight course tasting menu, based on guests' favourite dishes from over the years. Quite a few people had cast their vote in the poll, which was then whittled down according to season and availability, producing a menu of the finest summer combinations... A summertime "Greatest Hits" if you will.

Claude Bosi originally opened Hibiscus in Ludlow, before relocating to London in October 2007. It has held two Michelin stars since 2003; has five rosettes in the AA Restaurant Guide 2015 (retained since 2003); it has a 9/10 rating in the Waitrose Good Food Guide 2015, and is ranked 5th in the UK. Flippin' heck.

Bosi brings together classic French cooking with modern techniques and the best ingredients from the British isles; a formula that has proven highly successful. And so, the celebratory £135 tasting menu - the crème de la crème of Hibiscus' 15 years - was one that we couldn't miss. And although we weren't going to go down the wine flight route (especially at an extra £95 each), after a chilled glass of Billecart Salmon Rosé from the Champagne Trolley - YES, A CHAMPAGNE TROLLEY - we were totally sold on the idea. We're weak, I know.

Looking back on it now, it probably wasn't the wisest decision, especially as our table was at 9.30pm, which was also way too late to embark on a mega tasting menu (we didn't have our final course until gone midnight!). No doubt these factors fueled the fire with the snooty people on the next table, and unfortunately their "we're so much better than you" attitude completely ruined the end of my spectacular birthday meal, leaving me exiting the restaurant in tears (the wine flight definitely didn't help with that either, haha). But enough about that, it happened, and we're actually returning to Hibiscus next month to make sure we leave with a smile.

The menu kicked off with Foie Gras Ice Cream, mango and sherry vinegar caramel, served with a fine flute of Alfred Gratien Champagne Brut, 2000. Since posting a picture of this on Twitter, I received a backlash of animal rights comments from randomers, but hell, it was worth it! A mini cone filled with sweet mango puree, topped with an unexpectedly light liver-y ice cream, swirled with a tangy caramel, and sprinkled with what can only be described as 'savoury crunch'. It gave your typical cornetto a run for it's money.

Next was the Clarence Court Egg with pea, coconut and Thai curry. I've had a "filled egg" at many a restaurant now - it's particularly favourable around Easter - but just like dippy eggs and soldiers at home, it still brings out the child in me. Fresh and fragrant, it made sure I was ready for more food, and the fantastic bread that came out (courtesy of Mikael Jonsson of Hedone), slathered with salted butter, certainly hit the spot too.

The delicate and dreamy Devonshire Crab dish, with gel like pearls of elderflower and new season almond was served with a 2013 Karner Gabor Rizling from Hungary; a beautiful match, and a beautiful wine! (No surprise - we're riesling fiends!)

The Spring Onion Ravioli was one I was looking forward to after seeing some photos of it on Social Media. With broad beans, lime, Moroccan mint, and a creamy sauce, the humble pasta pillow was elevated to new heights, and it confirmed that I should definitely order ravioli when eating out more often. It was partnered with a crisp glass of Les Enfants Sauvages Cool Moon 2012,  from the Roussillon region of France; the floral, stone fruit nature of the blend of Grenache Gris and Grenache Blanc, ticked all the boxes against the very 'green' flavours in the dish.

Although the Cornish Cod ‘Grenobloise’ isn't the most attractive plate of food you'll ever see, I must remind you that you should never judge a book by it's cover. Grenobloise is a classic French sauce, composed of capers, nutty brown butter and lemon - simple - but Bosi's version sees a cream coloured foam covering the entire plate. It's a rich-but-sharp sauce that, thanks to the aeration, doesn't leave your mouth feeling coated with butter, therefore, letting you really enjoy the other textures in the dish (i.e. the meaty flesh of the cod). It was matched with a glass of biodynamic Eugenio Rosi, Anisos, 2011, Trentino, Italy; the honey, blossom and nutty flavours complimented the cod 'Grenobloise' wonderfully, and the bitter finish cleansed the palate.

The next dish was Native Lobster with fresh cherries and black pepper sauce; a plate of food containing lobster and cherries totally has 'Lucie' written all over it. There were also some little deep fried lobster ravioli served alongside, which I could've scoffed all night long. The wine match for this was an orange wine, tasting a little sherry-like, Domaine Julien Courtois Savasol, 2008, from the Loire Valley, France. It was probably the only wine of the night we were unsure about.

Both of us agreed that the tenderest hunk of Milk Fed Veal with girolles, apricot and chervil was THE BEST course. The fact that it came with our only glass of red wine probably influenced this; Broc Cellars “Syrah 13.1” 2012, Sonoma County, California. The sweet meat melted in the mouth, and the earthy mushrooms were backed up by the black pepper, spice, dark fruit, and powerful tannins from the wine. Neither of us wanted it to end.

Photo Credit (as mine was blurry): Genuiness Blog

Our first dessert was Gariguette Strawberry, celeriac and szechuan pepper; a mini trifle of sorts. The combination of strawberries and pepper is not an alien concept, however, the nutty celery flavour with the szechuan Asian punch, felt inspired. It was partnered with Vial-Magneres Banyuls 2009, Roussillon, France; tinged gold, with full fruit flavours, it ensured us that we were in 'sweet' territory, then the final course sealed the deal.

A deliciously dark chocolate tart case, filled with a mousse of New Season Peas, infused with mint and topped with pop corn, toyed with our taste buds. The most perfect quenelle of snow-white coconut sorbet added an extra dimension; an English garden with a twist of the Caribbean! And with just enough naughtiness from the chocolate, freshness from the peas and mint, and creaminess from the coconut, it was a stellar end to the tasting menu.

Upsetting experience aside, Claude Bosi's Hibiscus rightly lived up to it's reputation; every course was a delight! And I'm just thankful that we get to go again in a month's time...

Hibiscus, 29 Maddox Street, Mayfair, London W1S 2PA

Kitty Fisher's Mayfair

According to the age-old nursery rhyme, there may have been a bit of a rift between Lucy Locket and Kitty Fisher; slightly sinister meanings always lie behind those little ditties. This Lucie, however, has very different feelings towards dear Kitty; she bloody loves her!

Ok, it's not a 'her'. It's a restaurant in Mayfair's Shepherd Market, whose kitchen is headed up by Tomos Parry; so in that sense it'd probably be more like a 'he'. But like the 18th-century courtesan it's named after, a lady who apparently once ate a 1000 guinea note on a slice of bread and butter, Kitty Fisher's is just as lavish - though thankfully without the hefty Mayfair price tag!

This time last month I was feeling particularly smug. Not only were The Chap and I heading to London for a long weekend of food and drink fun, but we had a table booked at the hottest restaurant in town. In the weeks prior to our trip, new rave reviews of Kitty Fisher's kept popping up, and Twitter was rife with photos of the most delicious looking beef. This sneak preview felt almost perverse; we probably shouldn't have been scouring social media so intently, but it was addictive, and as a result, it simply made us more hungry and excited about our Saturday night dinner reservation.

Formally at Climpson's Arch in London Fields, Young British Foodie Chef of the Year 2014, Tomos Parry, has been joined by ex Pitt Cue Co sous-chef Chris Leach. Together, they create wonders on their wood-fired grill, so much so that they've been fully booked since they opened in December! With competitive prices - up to £9 for a starter, mains £15-£30, and desserts under £8 - it's easy to see why. The 40-seat restaurant that's split over two floors "prides itself on atmosphere", and since every who's-who has eaten here, its got the reputation to back it up. 

We started with the bread and butter (£3), and you'll be glad to hear that there was not a bank note in sight! Chunks of crusty sourdough had been drizzled in oil and grilled, then served with burnt onion butter; whipped to an almost cloud-like consistency, the butter was dusted with black onion ash, and was a thing of beauty. Some restaurants get bread so wrong, but the fact that The Chap and I were wrestling over the last smears of butter on the plate says it all.

Not being massively flush post Christmas, we decided that we'd go down the route of ordering three starters between us, and sharing a main, before deciding if we could manage dessert. And yes, we obviously had dessert.

The Beef Tartar (£10) was a peppery little number. On crisp rye, the chopped beef was fresh and fragrant with rosemary, peppery thanks to the nasturtium, and it had a punchy acidity coming from the shallots. It had great texture and ticked all the tartar boxes.

Lamb Cutlets, with anchovy, mint and parsley were our second starter (£10.50). Sat alone on the plate, there was nowhere to hide; they had to be good, and they were. Charred on the outside, blushing pink within, they were everything you'd want a piece of lamb to be. And there was just enough of the salty, herby sauce to amplify the flavour of the meat; any more and it'd be at risk of overpowering the little cutlets.

Red Mullet (£12) completed the set, firm white flesh and a clear, intensely fishy sauce. Delicate, delicious, and the charred cucumber was something I'd never tried before.

Every single person that's eaten at Kitty Fisher's has raved about the beef. I'm not sure they intended it to be their showstopping, signature dish, but it's all people are talking about.  At £30, it's not exactly a cheap dish, but it had to be done; and actually, it was plenty big enough for us two to share.

The Galician Beef Sirloin is a prime cut taken from an old dairy cow; something the Spanish do so I'm told. I'm going as far as to say that it was the best piece of beef I have ever had. EVER. Not pink, but crimson slices of meat had been laid out on the plate, dazzling us with black caramelized edges and rugged pieces of fat. Looking at my knife, which seemed like it'd only be good for butter, I had my doubts, but it slid through with ease, and the beef just melted in the mouth. It's actually ridiculous how good it tasted.

It's accompaniments shouldn't go unnoticed though; little cups of burnished onions, filled with rich, meaty juices, and the occasional pickled walnut. Waxy pink fir potatoes, coated in a mustard dressing and oozing Tunworth cheese; potatoes and cheese - yes please! And there were greens for good health too.

We had three options for dessert, but not wanting to over-do it, we just chose two (a decision that I still regret). Chocolate mousse, rhubarb, creme fraiche and hazelnuts (£8). It wasn't the prettiest of dishes, but I thoroughly enjoyed all the flavour/texture contrasts; velvety chocolate, sweet but sharp rhubarb, tangy creme fraiche and crunchy hazelnuts. A simple two-scoop serving of brown bread and marmalade ice cream (£6) was equally as good... But nothing will live up to that beef!

As if all of this isn't good enough as it is, the wine list is very reasonable too; in fact you can get a glass of the house red for a mere £4! If you're planning on going, firstly, good luck; I imagine it's pretty hard getting a table any time soon. And secondly, request a table downstairs; it's much more intimate, you get a view of the kitchen, and you won't get hit with unwanted cold air every time someone opens the door. 

All in all, a stellar supper from the team at Kitty Fisher's; I just fear that the old milkers have ruined beef for me forever.