Hibiscus: 15 Years and 8 Memorable Dishes with Claude Bosi

Last month The Chap took me to London for my birthday; he'd done his research, and where we were going was meant to be a surprise, but quite frankly he could not keep it to himself! I don't blame him though; he'd pulled out all the stops by getting a reservation at Claude Bosi's Hibiscus.

Coincidentally, we were going during the month that the restaurant was celebrating its 15th anniversary, and throughout June they were offering diners an extra special eight course tasting menu, based on guests' favourite dishes from over the years. Quite a few people had cast their vote in the poll, which was then whittled down according to season and availability, producing a menu of the finest summer combinations... A summertime "Greatest Hits" if you will.

Claude Bosi originally opened Hibiscus in Ludlow, before relocating to London in October 2007. It has held two Michelin stars since 2003; has five rosettes in the AA Restaurant Guide 2015 (retained since 2003); it has a 9/10 rating in the Waitrose Good Food Guide 2015, and is ranked 5th in the UK. Flippin' heck.

Bosi brings together classic French cooking with modern techniques and the best ingredients from the British isles; a formula that has proven highly successful. And so, the celebratory £135 tasting menu - the crème de la crème of Hibiscus' 15 years - was one that we couldn't miss. And although we weren't going to go down the wine flight route (especially at an extra £95 each), after a chilled glass of Billecart Salmon Rosé from the Champagne Trolley - YES, A CHAMPAGNE TROLLEY - we were totally sold on the idea. We're weak, I know.

Looking back on it now, it probably wasn't the wisest decision, especially as our table was at 9.30pm, which was also way too late to embark on a mega tasting menu (we didn't have our final course until gone midnight!). No doubt these factors fueled the fire with the snooty people on the next table, and unfortunately their "we're so much better than you" attitude completely ruined the end of my spectacular birthday meal, leaving me exiting the restaurant in tears (the wine flight definitely didn't help with that either, haha). But enough about that, it happened, and we're actually returning to Hibiscus next month to make sure we leave with a smile.

The menu kicked off with Foie Gras Ice Cream, mango and sherry vinegar caramel, served with a fine flute of Alfred Gratien Champagne Brut, 2000. Since posting a picture of this on Twitter, I received a backlash of animal rights comments from randomers, but hell, it was worth it! A mini cone filled with sweet mango puree, topped with an unexpectedly light liver-y ice cream, swirled with a tangy caramel, and sprinkled with what can only be described as 'savoury crunch'. It gave your typical cornetto a run for it's money.

Next was the Clarence Court Egg with pea, coconut and Thai curry. I've had a "filled egg" at many a restaurant now - it's particularly favourable around Easter - but just like dippy eggs and soldiers at home, it still brings out the child in me. Fresh and fragrant, it made sure I was ready for more food, and the fantastic bread that came out (courtesy of Mikael Jonsson of Hedone), slathered with salted butter, certainly hit the spot too.

The delicate and dreamy Devonshire Crab dish, with gel like pearls of elderflower and new season almond was served with a 2013 Karner Gabor Rizling from Hungary; a beautiful match, and a beautiful wine! (No surprise - we're riesling fiends!)

The Spring Onion Ravioli was one I was looking forward to after seeing some photos of it on Social Media. With broad beans, lime, Moroccan mint, and a creamy sauce, the humble pasta pillow was elevated to new heights, and it confirmed that I should definitely order ravioli when eating out more often. It was partnered with a crisp glass of Les Enfants Sauvages Cool Moon 2012,  from the Roussillon region of France; the floral, stone fruit nature of the blend of Grenache Gris and Grenache Blanc, ticked all the boxes against the very 'green' flavours in the dish.

Although the Cornish Cod ‘Grenobloise’ isn't the most attractive plate of food you'll ever see, I must remind you that you should never judge a book by it's cover. Grenobloise is a classic French sauce, composed of capers, nutty brown butter and lemon - simple - but Bosi's version sees a cream coloured foam covering the entire plate. It's a rich-but-sharp sauce that, thanks to the aeration, doesn't leave your mouth feeling coated with butter, therefore, letting you really enjoy the other textures in the dish (i.e. the meaty flesh of the cod). It was matched with a glass of biodynamic Eugenio Rosi, Anisos, 2011, Trentino, Italy; the honey, blossom and nutty flavours complimented the cod 'Grenobloise' wonderfully, and the bitter finish cleansed the palate.

The next dish was Native Lobster with fresh cherries and black pepper sauce; a plate of food containing lobster and cherries totally has 'Lucie' written all over it. There were also some little deep fried lobster ravioli served alongside, which I could've scoffed all night long. The wine match for this was an orange wine, tasting a little sherry-like, Domaine Julien Courtois Savasol, 2008, from the Loire Valley, France. It was probably the only wine of the night we were unsure about.

Both of us agreed that the tenderest hunk of Milk Fed Veal with girolles, apricot and chervil was THE BEST course. The fact that it came with our only glass of red wine probably influenced this; Broc Cellars “Syrah 13.1” 2012, Sonoma County, California. The sweet meat melted in the mouth, and the earthy mushrooms were backed up by the black pepper, spice, dark fruit, and powerful tannins from the wine. Neither of us wanted it to end.

Photo Credit (as mine was blurry): Genuiness Blog

Our first dessert was Gariguette Strawberry, celeriac and szechuan pepper; a mini trifle of sorts. The combination of strawberries and pepper is not an alien concept, however, the nutty celery flavour with the szechuan Asian punch, felt inspired. It was partnered with Vial-Magneres Banyuls 2009, Roussillon, France; tinged gold, with full fruit flavours, it ensured us that we were in 'sweet' territory, then the final course sealed the deal.

A deliciously dark chocolate tart case, filled with a mousse of New Season Peas, infused with mint and topped with pop corn, toyed with our taste buds. The most perfect quenelle of snow-white coconut sorbet added an extra dimension; an English garden with a twist of the Caribbean! And with just enough naughtiness from the chocolate, freshness from the peas and mint, and creaminess from the coconut, it was a stellar end to the tasting menu.

Upsetting experience aside, Claude Bosi's Hibiscus rightly lived up to it's reputation; every course was a delight! And I'm just thankful that we get to go again in a month's time...

Hibiscus, 29 Maddox Street, Mayfair, London W1S 2PA

After Hours Dessert with Mark Donald: Pop-up at Ozone Coffee Roasters, London

Last month, scrolling through Twitter, I stumbled across a retweet mentioning a four course dessert pop-up in London. A mere mention of dessert and my ears prick up. Anyway a few clicks and a couple of text messages later, I'd booked a place for me and a friend to go to After Hours on Good Friday - a perfect Bank Holiday activitity, especially considering my Easter egg stash gets smaller and smaller each year (I actually had none this time round *sniff*).

At After Hours, they champion modern and innovative dessert; inviting London's most exciting pastry chefs to create a spectacular four course tasting menu for sweet toothed attendees, held in independent coffee shops across London. They've worked with chefs from restaurants including The Fat Duck, The Ledbury, and Opera Tavern, but on this occasion - at Ozone Coffee Roasters in Shoreditch - Mark Donald from Hibiscus took centre stage.

Mark is currently sous chef at the acclaimed Mayfair restaurant. He's previously spent time at 2 Michelin-starred Restaurant Andrew Fairlie, as well as a five month stint at that famous Danish place, Noma. The £25 ticket, which seemed like an absolute steal, included the four desserts and a coffee with petit fours to round the evening off. There were three different sittings, of which we chose the latest option at 9.30pm, and beer/wine/cocktails/soft drinks were available at an extra charge.

Getting dressed up and going out solely for dessert is pretty much any girl's dream (unless you're health/diet obsessed, and if that's you, bore off). I'd not been to Ozone before, but it's a large idustrial styled space split over two floors; an espresso bar and open kitchen, completed with stylish booths and seating areas upstairs, whilst the in house roastery malarky goes on downstairs. They clearly run a well oiled machine.



We were sat in prime position at the open kitchen bar top, meaning we could watch all the theatrics of the chefs plating up the art-like desserts, and we could also get sneak previews of what was yet to come. Raising a toast to the long weekend with some prosecco, a little Easter inspired treat came our way. Nestled in an egg box, and in real egg shells, we had a coconut mousse with a passion fruit coulis. It's at this point that I will apologise for my lack of knowledge on exactly what we had; the menu teased us with listing just the names of each basic element, and I was too busy gawping at the dishes to take notes when they were served. So perhaps consider this an approximation on the After Hours pop-up..

The first course was 'Sweetcorn, Basil, Bergamot'. A biscuit-y disk topped with a bergamot cream and adorned with plain and caramel coated popcorn, served with a glowing green quenelle of basil sorbet. It really was ALL about the sorbet, I loved how fresh and clean tasting it was.

Next up was 'Pistachio, Gariguette'. A pastry tart case, filled with 'Gariguette Strawberries' (an old and much-loved French variety that produces sweet and aromatic fruits early in the season) and a gorgeous pistachio crème pat/custard, sealed off with a delicate lid of caramelised sugar - as if stolen from a crème brûlée.The plate was sprinkled with pistachio and strawberry dust, and sauces of the same flavours. The vibrant red and green combinations looked fantastic on the white plate (it tasted as good as it looked too), and there really is nothing more satisfying than making that first crack in the sugar with your spoon.

The third course was a puzzler; 'Rhubarb, Ghruth Dhu'. The first part is pretty simple - rhubarb - we know that, having been only lightly cooked to still contain some of it's bite and sharpness. The other element seemed like a cheesecake of sorts, and it really did have that cheese-like taste.

Looking up the unusual name when I got home was a bit of a revelation. Gruth Dhu (or Black Crowdie) is a soft cream cheese with slightly sour, tangy milky flavour, which is what I was getting taste-wise. The actual cheese is rolled in pinhead oatmeal and crushed peppercorns, which explains the intensely black, black pepper custard, and the little oatcakes served with it too. The additional 'h' in the name must be to distinguish the fact that it's Mark's own clever take on the cheese.

Having this slight savoury course in amongst all the sweet was a good move as it prepared us for the last course. Titled 'Buen-no?' the only thing we could think of were Kinder Bueno's... Correct. I've not had a Kinder Bueno for years, and after this version, I very much doubt I'll have one again, at least not anytime soon; it simply can't compete. A wafer and hazelnut parfait, cased in white and milk chocolate, served with a scoop of wafer flavoured ice cream, splatters of silky chocolate sauce and crowned with wafer-y gold dust; majestic.

It was 'Coffee & Swedgers' before hometime. Apparently this word is commonly used in and around the Glasgow area (Mark is Scottish) to describe penny sweets bought from ice-cream vans. 'Swedgers', however, can also be used to describe pill or tablet based illicit drugs such as ecstasy; so the vintage sweet tin masquerading a wealth of bite sized 'sugar highs' is all very tongue in cheek

A strong caffeine hit in the form of an espresso and we dived in. Classic cinder toffee, with it's honeycomb appearance, had a wonderful honey flavour too. A lime curd filled macaron; subtly sweet and citrusy. A sugarcoated sea buckthorn jelly dome; bigger, better flavoured and less chewy than a Jelly Tot. And finally the opinion dividing bacon fudge; very soft maple-y fudge, coated in crumbs which resembled Frazzles crisps. I liked the weirdness of it, but my dessert night accomplice wasn't so sure.

All in all, a perfect night was had. We ate, drank and bascially watched an elaborate performance in the kitchen. For £25, it was a FEAST for the eyes and for the belly.

BTW: Amazing photos of the evening can be seen in cwiss's Flickr Photostream - puts my poor phone snaps to shame.